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Amana Tool® makes it easy to create beautiful tambours for roll-top desks, computer desks, entertainment centers, kitchen appliance garages, and breadboxes. |
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When making a tambour with the Amana Tool® tambour bit set there is no need for cloth or glue. Instead, the slats simply slide together to create a flexible, interlocking ball-and-socket joint. |
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The set consists of three bits. The first bit shapes
the face of slats, bit number two shapes the socket,
and the third bit rounds the edges of the rectangular
slat that forms the end of the tambour.
Mill the Stock
To construct a tambour begin by milling the stock.
When milling the stock for the tambour strips rip the stock 1-15/16" wide. This dimension is wide enough
to make two strips from each piece. |
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The oversized stock will provide an extra margin of
safety by adding mass and positioning your hands
further away from the spinning bits. It’s also a good
idea to mill a couple of extra pieces of tambour
stock for use when setting up the router.
Shape the Tambours
Making the tambours is a three step process:
shaping the face of the stock, routing the socket,
and ripping the stock to final width. For your
personal safety as well as for a smooth, accurate
cut it is important to use a featherboard and a
push stick when routing the tambours.
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It’s also a good idea to shape the tambours in two
light passes rather than one heavy pass. This not
only reduces the strain on the router, it also results
in a smoother surface that is free of chatter.
Before shaping the face of the tambours use the
second bit in the set to cut a test socket in sample
stock. This sample will serve as a test piece when
sizing the ball on the tambours.
When shaping the tambour slats, each piece of
stock must be run through four times because
you’re shaping both faces of two tambour slats
on each piece of stock.
Shaping the Tambour |
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Shape the first face.

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The tambour can easily slide through a groove
with a radius of four inches and slides in a
groove 9/16" wide.

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Then turn the piece end-for-end and shape the
second face. |
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Now repeat the process on the opposite face of
the stock. |
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Once all of the tambour stock is shaped the next
step is to reposition the fence for a deeper cut and
make a second pass. The depth of cut for the
second pass is important for smooth operation of
the completed tambour. The ball and socket joint
must flex smoothly without binding. For the best
results, shape a sample and test the fit. |
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Once you’re satisfied with the fit shape the
tambour stock. |
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Now cut the socket in the tambour stock. First,
use the tablesaw to rip a shallow groove on both
edges of each piece of stock to reduce the strain
on the router bit. |
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Then position the fence on the router table so that
the socket is centered on the thickness of the tambour
stock. When routing the socket use a featherboard
to keep the stock firmly against the fence. |
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Also, remember to shape the socket on the edge
of the stock that serves as the tambour end. |
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Now rip each piece of tambour stock down the
middle to separate the individual slats. |
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Then round the edges of the stock that serves as
the tambour end. |
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The last step is to cut the tambour slats to final
length. Measure the distance between the tambour
grooves and subtract 1/16”. Before installing the
tambour in the groove apply the finish and wax
the ends of the slats as well as the groove. |
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