Please
select a question to reveal the answer.
When I am purchasing a router bit, how can I be
sure that I am buying a quality tool?
What size shank should
I use with my router?
What is a proper way to
install a router bit into a collet?
What
is the maximum RPM you can run a router bit?
What
is the most important
part of the router bit?
I have been told that 'C-4' grade carbide is the best carbide for all applications.
Is this information accurate?
What is the leading cause of dulling cutting tools?
When
should I use a single flute, two-flute and three-flute
bit?
Why would
I use a compression bit over a straight bit when cutting
double sided melamine?
What
are the benefits of using 'insert' tooling?
I have
been looking for both stile & rail cutters and raised
panel cutters for my router. Your catalog shows these items
with a 1/2" shank. Are they available with 1/4" shank?
How do I know when it's time to re-sharpen my router bits and saw blades?
I'm getting a vibration when
I'm routing. What could be causing it?
While ripping, I experience burning
of the material. What could be causing it?
I'm getting blade vibration when
my saw reaches maximum RPM. What could be the cause?
I noticed that my cut is wider
than the blade kerf. What could be the cause?
I am getting blow out on the
bottom of the cut. What could be the reason?
What is the maximum R.P.M for
horizontal raised panel and other large diameter router
bits?
I recently purchased the Amana
Tool® 'Bullseye' Rosette Cutter System and am very
pleased with the design and performance. I would like to
know if I can use this cutter in my router?
I own a 10" table saw and I can not seem to find the right saw blade
for cutting 'melamine'. Any Suggestions?
Can you re-bore your saw blade
to different sizes?
I have a 10" table saw, what
size dado set up should I use?
My shop does a lot of dado cutting
with a router. Being that plywood and other sheets goods
are either metric or undersized by 1/32", do you have
straight bits with exact dimensions?
Do you manufacture a router bit for cutting plastics, especially acrylic?
I was told that you have a router bit for fabricating Wilsonart SSV.
Could you provide more information?
We are trying to
match an existing molding in a circa 1930's home. After
looking through your catalog, we could not find an exact
match. Can you make a custom router bit or shaper cutter?
When I am purchasing a router bit,
how can I be sure that I am buying a quality tool?
A quality router bit should have a solid tool-steel body that is well machined
(not cast) and is substantial in thickness and weight. The carbide should also
be substantial and have a very fine grind, practically like a mirror finish.
In the case of 'form' type router bits (corner round, cove, ogee, etc.), the
carbide should have a shear angle. The shear angle can be viewed from the side
and the carbide will appear 'tilted' or leaning. For comparison, view a straight
bit and you will see that the carbide is parallel to the shank. The carbide and
the body should also have the same relative shape, except the body will, of course,
be smaller than the carbide. There should be adequate and consistent clearance
between the shape of the body and the carbide. The brazing should appear even
and consistent, and without any voids or gaps. If the tool has a ball bearing
guide, there should be no 'wobble', as this would indicate an imbalanced tool.
Finally, the overall appearance should be clean and show good attention to detail.
What size shank should I use with my router?
Always use the largest shank possible that your router
will accommodate. Also, it is best to use the shortest possible cutting edge
available that will meet the requirements of the application. Excessive cutting
edge length and/or overall length compounds vibration and deflection - a leading
cause of tool breakage.
What is the proper way to install a router bit into
the collet?
Insert the router bit in all the
way until it bottoms out then backing off 1/16".
This will allow enough room for shank expansion and keep
the router bit from freezing in the collet.
What is the maximum RPM you can run a
router bit?
Most router bits can run
at router manufactures maximum RPM's, but there
are a few exceptions due to size and application.
Always check either the RPM guide supplied with
the router bit, the Amana Tool® catalog or
call the Amana
Tool® HOT LINE at 1.800.445.0077.
What is
the most important part of the router bit?
Believe it or not, the shank (shaft) of the router bit is the most important
part. If the shank is not perfectly concentric, there will be excessive vibration,
run-out and imbalance, and can cause poor quality cutting. This is particularly
important for large diameter router bits which can be extremely dangerous if
they are not properly manufactured. Equally important is the accuracy and condition
of the router collet.
I have
been told that 'C-4' grade carbide is the best carbide for all applications.
Is this information accurate?
No. Contrary
to popular belief, there is no single grade of carbide that is suitable
for every situation. For example, saw blades for ripping wood and
for cutting non-ferrous metals (aluminum, etc.) use softer grades
such as C-1 or C-2. If C-4 grade were used, it would be too brittle
for these materials. Amana Tool® uses the most appropriate grade
of carbide that gives the best durability, performance, finish, and
tool-life. Carbide grain size, binder, and ultimate surface quality
(grinding) must also be taken into consideration when manufacturing
high-quality cutting tools.
What is the leading cause
of dulling cutting tools?
Excessive heat is the leading cause of
cutting edge deterioration. This can occur from cutting very
abrasive materials such as MDF, melamine, plywood, etc. In
addition, cutting tools become overheated and dull from improper
and infrequent sharpenings, incorrect feed-rates and RPM, excessive
removal of material, inappropriate cutting tool selection for
the type of material and machine, and inadequate horsepower.
When should
I use a single flute, two-flute and three-flute bit?
Single flute bits are primarily used for cutting to size when speed is
more important than finish. Two and three flute bits are used when finish
is more important then speed. The more flutes you use the slower the
feed rate.
Why
would I use a compression bit over a straight bit when cutting
double sided melamine?
Compression bits are designed to compress the material to avoid chipping and
tearing the material. The result is a much cleaner cut without chipping or tearing
the melamine.
What are
the benefits of using 'insert' tooling?
Although the initial cost is higher, there are several real advantages to insert
tooling, or tooling that uses replaceable knives. The primary benefit is that
no re-sharpening is necessary. Most insert tools have at least two cutting edges
per knife, while some have four. When the knife becomes dull, you simply loosen
the knife (or knives), rotate them and re-tighten. This can often be done without
removing the cutter from the machine or router, which saves valuable set-up time.
Of course, it is important to unplug the machine before changing knives. Another
key feature of insert tools is there is no diameter loss as with re-sharpened
tools. This is particularly beneficial if tight tolerances must be adhered to,
or if the piece being cut must exactly match the previous piece.
I have been looking for both
stile & rail cutters and raised panel cutters for my router.
Your catalog shows these items with a 1/2" shank. Are
they available with 1/4" shank?
The regular cabinet door stile and rail sets include the tongue and groove portion
of this type of joinery, thereby exceeding the safe capacity of 1/4" shanks.
In addition, the raised panel type router bits have a profile that is also too
large for 1/4" shanks. However, pages 40 and 41of our 2003 catalog shows a series
of 1/4" shank stile and rail cutters.
How do I know when it's time
to re-sharpen my router bits and saw blades?
When cutting tools become dull, there is a noticeable difference in: 1.) the
finish quality of the cut (burning may also occur); 2.) the amount of necessary
horsepower or the amount of feed-rate required to maintain the cut; 3.) the sound
from the machine motor and the sound from the cutting action (usually a higher
pitch and decibel); 4.) the size of the chips from the cut (will become smaller
or turn to dust) because the cutting tool is grinding or abrading the material
rather than cutting it; 5.) the color of the cutting tool will change. It will
become blue or black from overheating and 'work-hardening'. The router collet
or other tool holding device may also become overheated; 6.) the surface quality
of the cutting edge - will eventually chip or break. 'Soft' carbide has often
been blamed for this phenomenon when, in actuality, the cutter has been run beyond
its capacity and useful tool-life. Always have your cutting tools re-sharpened
by a reputable grinding service.
I'm getting a vibration when I'm
routing. What could be causing it?
There are a few reasons that will cause a vibration. Check to make sure the router
shaft and collet are clean, and in good condition. Also check the RPM's. You
may be running it faster than the maximum.
While ripping, I experience burning of the material.
What could be causing it?
The most common reasons are, that you
are either ripping with too many teeth, you are not feeding
your material fast enough or your fence is not aligned with
the blade properly.
I'm getting blade vibration when my saw reaches maximum
RPM. What could be the cause?
First check to see if the blade is
mounted properly and the arbor and collars are clean. Second,
check the arbor to make sure it is running true and not bent.
Also check your drive belt for slippage.
I noticed that my cut is wider
than the blade kerf. What could be the cause?
Check the alignment of the blade to the fence. This is the number one reason
why the cut is wider then the kerf.
I am getting blow out on the bottom of the cut.
What could be the reason?
First make sure you're using the proper blade for the application with the right
amount of teeth per inch and tooth configuration for the material you are cutting.
If you are still having a problem, adjust your cutting height by either raising
or lowering your blade.
What is the maximum R.P.M for horizontal
raised panel and other large diameter router bits?
Generally, all large diameter router
bits (approx. 2" and larger) should be run at a reduced R.P.M.,
usually about 14,000 max and 12,000 ideal. This gives you more
control over the cut and the feed-rate. Also, bits of this
type are normally used in a table-mounted router with a minimum
of 2-1/2 horsepower. Adjustments to the R.P.M., feed-rate,
and amount of material being removed must be made based upon
the type of material, the horsepower, moisture content and
the like. With large diameter cutters, it is best to first
remove as much material as possible (by means of chamfering
or using a smaller radius, etc). Save the large cutter for
the final few light passes only. This method is not only safer
but will give a better quality finish and longer tool-life.
For more information, check with your router owner's manual
and specific instructions for the particular tools that you
intend to use.
I recently purchased the Amana
Tool® 'Bullseye' Rosette Cutter System and am very pleased
with the design and performance. I would like to know if I
can use this cutter in my router?
The Rosette Cutter is not recommended for use with a router for several reasons:
1.) the maximum rated R.P.M. for the Rosette Cutter is too slow for a router;
2.) a router is not stable enough; and 3.) the Rosette Cutter does not have a
center point (as with a standard drill bit). For these reasons, this type of
tool is recommended only for use in a heavy-duty drill press, milling machine
or lathe. Furthermore, the workpiece must be securely clamped and a relatively
slow feed rate should be used.
I own a 10" table saw and I can not seem to
find the right saw blade for cutting 'melamine'. Any Suggestions?
Yes. For regular use try the Amana Tool® #MB10800, which is a 10" diameter,
80 tooth blade with negative hook angle and 'high-ATB' grind. For moderate to
heavy production, try the new Ditec 2000(tm) Series, #DT10720. Both of these
blades will cut melamine chip-free on both sides of the material provided that
the fence is square and the arbor is running true. Also, it is helpful to have
a close fitting throat plate so the material is supported on the bottom as close
to the cut as possible.
Can you re-bore your saw blade
to different sizes?
Yes, we can re-bore most saw blades and dado sets to fit almost any
size machine on the market. Please see page 188 in our 2006 Catalog for further
information.
I have a 10" table saw, what
size dado set up should I use?
As a rule of thumb, when working with a 10" table saw, you would
use an 8" dado set. If working on a 8" saw, you would use a 6" dado
set.
My shop does a lot of dado cutting with a router.
Being that plywood and other sheets goods are either metric or undersized by
1/32", do you have straight bits with exact dimensions?
Yes, we have a special series of plunge/straight bits that are specifically designed
for this purpose. Among others, they include sizes such as 23/32" (3/4"), 19/32" (5/8"),
16mm, 18mm, etc. Please see our 2003 Catalog page #5 for more information.
Do you manufacture a router bit
for cutting plastics, especially acrylic?
Yes, we basically have two types: One for abrasive or hard plastics such as acrylic
of phenolic resin and another for softer materials such as PVC, styrene, etc.
Please see our 2003 Catalog page #6 for more information.
I was told that you have a router bit
for fabricating Wilsonart SSV. Could you provide more information?
The product you are referring to is the Amana Too® 'Superabbet™',
which is used for cutting the countertop rabbet, allowing the
proper edge recess for the SSV™. Please see our 2003 Catalog
page #47 for more information.
We are trying to match an existing
molding in a circa 1930's home. After looking through your catalog,
we could not find an exact match. Can you make a custom router
bit or shaper cutter?
We welcome any new design, but we cannot always accommodate requests for custom
tools. Just send in your request, preferably by fax, and we will repond as quickly
as possible. Often times a combination of two or more bits will accomplish the
intended profile.
|
