Architectural Woodworking |
| Woodworking Tips and Techniques by Lonnie Bird |
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| Crown Moldings for a Built-In Bookcase? |
I have a full wall built-in bookcase that I'm refinishing. I'm putting oak crown on the top and staining it walnut. I would like to put mdf crown
around the other walls and paint it.
How do I tie the mdf into the Oak? They are both about 4 1/2" but completely different profiles. Should I just stop short of the oak about 6 inches and do a crown return back to the wall.
- Dan H.
Mission Viejo, CA
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Lonnie
replies:
Built-in furniture is considered part of the room and is usually finished to match the woodwork in the room. However, if you choose to use a painted finish on the woodwork your solution to return the crown molding to the wall should keep the two moldings visually separate. I doubt that the bookcase will appear built-in though.
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| Wainscot Router Bits |
In reference to your Constructing Wainscot article, what bits where used to create the look in Photo A (the raised panel wainscot)?
- Robert
Troutville, VA
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Lonnie
replies:
The framework is shaped with Amana Profile Set no.49643. The ends of the rails are shaped first then the edges of the stiles and rails are shaped to create a decorative profile. The panel is shaped with Amana Tool no.54117 Traditional Raised Panel bit.
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| House Windows |
I have seen your divided light router set.. and was wondering if you feel that it is possible to use this set to build divided light windows in a house. I live in Barbados and the cost of pre-built windows is very expensive and the windows are inferior. Also, they don't build casement windows. Also would one set hold up to build 20 windows out of either purpleheart ot greeheart wood?
Barbados
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Lonnie
replies:
Yes, the Amana Tool Divided Light Door Set no.55360 should work fine for casement windows as long as you're using standard glass panes. Keep in mind that the set works with stock up to 7/8" thick so if you plan to use thick insulated glass there may not be enough space in the rabbet which holds the glass.
Because the set uses real mortise-and-tenon joinery, doors and windows made with this set are very strong and, unlike sets which use a short faux tenon, will resist sagging over time.
All Amana router bits use carbide cutting surfaces, either brazed carbide, carbide inserts, or in the case of spiral bits, solid carbide. Carbide is
extremely long-wearing and so the Divided Light Door set will easily shape the parts for twenty windows made from a tropical wood.
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| Window Casings |
I am in the process of making a significant number of semi-circular window casings out of pine. I intend to use four pieces of stock which will be joined end-to-end with ship-lap joints. After glue-up, I need to cut an accurate half-round shape with an inside radius of 36". The casing width is 3-1/2". Afterwards, I'll shape the molding prfile with a Williams and Hussey molder. How do I cut an accurate radius on both the inside and outside edges of the casing?.
Also, I have purchased quite a few Amana router bits over the past two years. Many have your picture on the plastic case and I was wondering if they have any collector value like my baseball card collection?
-Rex M.
BELLEFONTE, PA
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Lonnie
replies:
The molder is a great tool for shaping curved window casing; the process is efficient and, from the standpoint of safety, the knives are completely enclosed by the machine. A factory-made accessory jig is used to keep the curved molding in a "perpendicular" path in relation to the cutterhead.
Before shaping the molding profile, the stock is bandsawed to create the curve. The rollers on the jig require a smooth surface; any irregularities in the bandsawn edge of the curved molding will be transferred to the profile.
When making curved molding for furniture or architecture, I first take a few minutes to make a template. Then I use the template to flush-trim each piece of molding stock before shaping the profile. This method works well whether you're using a molder, shaper, or table-mounted router to shape the profile because it provides a smooth, "fair" curve to ride against the jig that guides the stock during shaping.
When making semi-circular molding such as window casing, I begin by using trammels on a stick to mark both the inside and outside radii of the molding onto the template stock. If you don't have a pair of trammels then a nail and pencil on a wooden stick works just as well. I would avoid using a string, however. The string may stretch and prevent you from drawing an accurate curve.
After layout, I carefully bandsaw the template to the lines. When sawing curves, I prefer the widest possible bandsaw blade because it is much easier to cut a smooth curve. For a 36" radius I suggest a 1/2" or even 3/4" wide bandsaw blade. Afterwards, I smooth the edges of the template by filing and/or sanding. It's important to take a few minutes and make the curves of the template perfect because the curves will be transferred directly to the workpiece when flush-trimming.
With the template cut out and smoothed you're ready for the next step. First trace the curves of the template directly to the workpiece. Then carefully bandsaw the curves staying about 1/16" outside the lines.
Now you're ready for flush-trimming. Keep in mind that flush-trimming curved stock is more of a challenge than straight stock; the grain changes direction at the apex of the curve. So to avoid tear-out it's important to cut "downhill" in the direction of the grain. To avoid going against the grain and creating a torn surface I suggest that you use the Amana Down-Shear Multi-Trimmer. This unique flush-trim bit has guide bearings on the end as well as on the shank which allow you to invert the workpiece and shape with the grain--without having to reposition the template.
And as for the plastic storage boxes, they work best at protecting the bits. For collector value, I'd hold on to the baseball cards.
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| Picture Rail Molding |
What router bits can I use to make picture rail molding?
- Ron
Ankeny, IA
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Lonnie
replies:
Years ago pictures were hung from a picture molding which ran around the top of the wall in each room. Wires were attached to the back of the picture frame; the other end of the wire attached to a metal clip. The clip was then hooked over the top edge of the picture molding.
Picture moldings typically have a round top edge approximately 5/8" in diameter which holds the clip. Like many moldings, picture molding can be made in several cuts on the router table using a selection of bits. When making multiple passes to create a molding, the most important consideration is to always have flat surfaces of the stock against the fence and table for good support during shaping.
The illustration shows how to shape a picture molding in five steps using three bits, Amana Tool no.51559 Bullnose router bit, Amana Tool no.49360 Super Rabbet bit, and the Amana Tool no.54162 Corner Bead bit.
See Illustration of picture rail molding |
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| Shoe Molding Profile |
I would like to find a router bit to cope shoe base molding. Do you know of such a bit?
Burnet, TX
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Lonnie
replies:
Shoe molding is usually a strip of wood which is shaped to a quarter of a circle. It can be coped with a cove router bit. For example, Amana Tool no.49520 3/4" roundover bit can be used to shape the shoe molding profile and Amana Tool no.49120 cove bit will shape the reverse profile, or cope.
Is common to cope a crown molding where it intersects at the inside corner of a room. Unlike a miter joint, a cope will help ensure that the joint closes tight during installation. However, when a shoe profile is coped a fragile knife edge will be created on the top surface of the molding. You'll most likely get better results with a miter joint.
View illustration of shoe molding
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| Hand Railing |
I have been a trim carpenter for 20 years .Most houses I have done had
prefabricated rails. The last 2 houses I have done had on site assembley
wood handrails and newels with wrough iron balusters. I went to
my local mill a few months ago to get a rough cut 3x8 piece
of oak for a mantle and found some cherry there also for a dollar
a board foot so I bought some and came up with a idea to make
my own hand rail . I bought a handrail bit and also bought
a machine I never used before a Jet 1-1/2 hp shaper.This is
where were my question comes in. Should i experiment with some soft
wood like pine or go for the cherry taking baby steps like about
4 passes through the machine and should I spend even more and try
a power feeder? I have some pictures of my railings if you would
like to see them?
Edgewater, MD
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Lonnie
replies:
Congratulations on taking
the step toward making your own moldings and handrails. Amana also
offers a number of attractive handrail
router bit 49556 and 54262. We also have bits for making your own architectural wainscot which you can view in this forum under "Architectural Woodworking".
Unlike simple moldings, handrails are large, deep profiles that are shaped on
three faces. Shaping a handrail with a shaper or router requires two bits, one
for the top and a second bit for the sides. Bit height and fence position must be precise to ensure that the cuts from the two different bits
line up properly. So I prefer to make a test cut on less expensive stock. Once
I'm satisfied with the setup, I shape the profiles by taking several light passes rather than one or two heavy cuts. This method helps to avoid tearout,
especially on a long handrail where the grain most likely changes direction.
A power feeder has two advantages over hand feeding, it will distance your hands
from the bit or cutter and, unlike hand feeding, it will feed the stock at a
uniform rate. For example, when hand feeding long stock, such as a handrail, you will naturally have to make a momentary pause during feeding
to reposition your hands. This slight pause can cause a burn mark, especially
on certain woods such as oak and cherry.
And, yes, when you have some time, send some photos of your work. We would enjoy
seeing them.
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| Window Sash |
What do you think is the best wood for use on traditional
pegged mortise-and-tenon sash windows? Also, What are your feelings regarding
stub tenons vs. through tenons?
-Jim
Cambridge, MA
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Lonnie
replies:
Sash & doors undergo
additional stress because they are exposed to two different environments
simultaneously. The exterior is exposed to the extremes of the
weather while the interior is in a stable, controlled environment. Because of this it is best to choose a stable wood that holds up
well outdoors. Douglas fir and western cedar are both good choices for sash or
doors that will be painted. Mahogany is a good choice when a natural finish is
preferred.
Regarding the tenons, modern glue does not require as much surface area for a
strong joint as the hide glue which was used centuries ago. That being said,
stub tenons are surprisingly strong and work well for certain applications such as kitchen cabinet doors. However, large architectural sash
and doors undergo much more stress because of the additional weight of the door
and/or glass panes. When constructing architectural sash & doors
I prefer the additional strength of mortise-and-tenon joinery.
There are two methods for creating mortise-and-tenon joinery with cope-and-stick
router bits. One way is to route mortises with a plunge router and a straight
bit such as Amana Tool
no.45426 and use a loose tenon to reinforce the joint.
Another method is to use Amana's new door making bits which will soon be available.
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| Crown Molding |
How can I accurately determine the right angle cut for installing crown
moulding in an Octagon cut out . The meausrements are 94 1/4" side to side
with 20 1/2" across the corners. I had a friend helping me but he wasted
a lot of material and still has not got the right angle.
-Kris P.
Stilwell, Oklahoma
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Lonnie
replies:
Mitering an architectural
crown molding can seem difficult but it is really quite easy once
you understand the concept.
Architectural crown moldings are beveled along both edges of the stock
in order to fit in the corner between the ceiling and wall. The effect
is dramatic; once applied, the molding appears thick and impressive when
it is really just a flat piece of stock mounted in the room on an angle.
Setting up a saw to cut crown molding can be tricky because the pitch
or angle of the crown is combined with the miter angle to create a compound
angle. Some manufacturers of compound miter saws provide cutting charts which show the correct settings for the saw based upon the slope of the
molding and the angle of the miter. There are also websites such as www.betterwoodworking.com/compound_miter.htm that
have compound angle miter charts.
For a glass-smooth miter try the Amana
Tool no.MS10600. This blade is especially designed for miter saws.
The 2 degree negative hook angle, high tooth count and 20 degree top
bevel produces extremely smooth cuts for tight miters.
View
Illustration
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| Raised Panel Interior Shutters |
What style cutter do you recommend for the cutting of stile and rail
assemblies for interior shutters.
-Glenn C.
Wheelersburg, OH
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| Wainscotting |
I am trying to find a set of matched router bits for doing a wainscotting
project. I've seen this done before on the DIY channel. I'm wondering
if you could tell me what type of bits are used where I can purchase
them.
-Steven
Thuss, FL
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Lonnie
replies:
Wainscot is architectural wood
paneling that starts at the baseboard and ends at the chair
rail. Traditional wainscot is very beautiful and adds a tremendous
amount of detail to a room. It is comprised of a stile-and-rail
mortise-and-tenon framework that surrounds a series of raised
panels. Today, it can easily be constructed using stile-and-rail
door making router bits. Although the process is not difficult
it can be somewhat time-consuming to construct a room full
of wainscot using traditional construction methods.
A easier method of construction is to simply attach 1/4" hardwood
veneered plywood to the wall to simulate panels and trim it out with
baseboard, stiles and chair rail. The end result, while not genuine
wainscot, is an attractive, less demanding alternative.
For an attractive appearance the trim pieces should be shaped along
the inside edges to simulate the "sticking" on traditional wainscot.
The ends of the stiles must be coped to fit the sticking profile
where the stiles join the baseboard and chair rail.
The sticking can be cut with Amana
Tool no.49664. The cope on the ends of the stiles is cut with no.49666.
To complete the cope the Amana
Superabbet no. 49360 is used.
The top rail is capped with a chair rail which is shaped with Amana
Tool no.54266
View
Illustration of Wall
View Illustration
of Wainscotting
Amana Now offers 3 New Wainscot Shaper Cutter Sets |
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