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Homepage > Lonnie Bird's Making Cabinet Doors and Drawers Woodworking Tips & Techniques Q&A Column
 

Making Cabinet Doors and Drawers

Woodworking Tips and Techniques by Lonnie Bird
 
Divided Lite Doors?

I am using the large divided lite door set you designed for Amana (#55362). Using 5/4 stock I am finding that in order to get the tenon in the centre the bottom of the bit must be raised above the table leaving a lip on the work piece. Am I missing an adjustment here?
Thanks.

Vancouver , BC
-Terry

Lonnie replies:

The Amana Divided Light Door set works on stock from 7/8" to 1-1/2" in thickness. Because the set works for such a wide range of stock thicknesses, the mortise will need to be offset rather than centered in the stock.

To locate the mortise I first mill a setup piece. As you can see in the drawing, I adjust the bit height to create a 3/32" fillet, or flat spot, at the top of the profile. The 1/4" mortise is now easy to locate using the setup piece.




Three Door

Cabinet doors?

I would like to make my own cabinet doors now-raised panel/cope and stick. Could you suggest some classic profiles and also the dimensions of the components to mill? That is, the typical thickness and width of the stile/rail and panel to begin milling with. And how do you size these elements for a given opening in a face frame type cab?

Thanks.
Antioch, CA
-Ron

Lonnie replies:

Cabinet doors are typically constructed with a stile-and-rail framework surrounding a "raised panel" (the edges of the panel have a decorative bevel which fit within the groove in the frame). This is a centuries-old construction method that allows the panel to expand and contract seasonally while the outer dimensions of the door remain unchanged.

The stiles run in a vertical direction and the horizontal rails fit between the stiles.

The stock for the stile-and-rail framework is typically 3/4" to 7/8" thick; panels are typically 5/8" thick. These standards have actually been used for centuries and today's router bits and shaper cutters are designed to use these same dimensions.

The width of the stiles and rails on kitchen cabinet doors vary based upon the design and are typically sized from 2" to 3" in width.

Cabinet doors can be designed to fit the cabinet in one of three ways:

1. Flush or Inset--Flush fitting doors must be carefully sized to fit within the cabinet opening. The is a traditional cabinet and door that has made a comeback in recent years and is my personal favorite. To join the stiles and rails I use traditional deep mortise-and-tenon joints. As you can see in the drawing, I add a decorative corner bead to the inside edges with Amana corner bead bit no.54170 (see the article on the Amana website for techniques for mitered sticking). The no.54117 traditional raised panel bit completes the look. Although it is labor intensive to fit and hinge inset doors, this style of door is beautiful and worth the extra effort.

2. Lipped--Lipped doors have a rabbet around the door perimeter and when closed, most of the door thickness is inside of the cabinet. This is also a traditional door and it less work to fit than inset doors. To cut the joints on this door I recommend Amana no.55439 Mission Style stile-and-rail bit set. The door edges are lipped with the Amana no.55300.

3. Overlay--Walk through any home center and look at the display cabinetsand this is the style that you will see. Overlay doors are popular because they are quick and easy to install. In fact, an overlay door does not really fit the cabinet opening, it simply covers the opening. However, with the right combination of profiles overlay doors can provide a striking appearance to a new kitchen. For the door in this drawing I recommend the Amana no.55430 Ogee Stile-and-Rail, the no.49534 Door Edge and the no.54121 Raised Panel bit. Notice that all three of these profiles are a variation of the classic reverse curve ogee.

As you can see from the three designs that I've offered, by using different combinations of stile-and-rail profiles, raised panel profiles, and door edges the possibilities are virtually endless. And Amana Tool offers one of the most complete lines of door making router bits available anywhere.




Three Door

Cabinet Doors?

I'm planning on using the Amana #55421 Stile and Rail set for constructing cabinet doors. Does Amana have a bit for shaping a 1/4" radius lip on the door edge?

I'd also like to use the Amana no.55360 Divided Light Door Set for the upper doors. What do you recommend for securing the glass?

Fort Collins, CO
-Larry

Lonnie replies:

To shape the 1/4" door lip I suggest that you use the Amana no.55300 bit and swap the 3/8" radius cutter with the 1/4" radius cutter on the no.55421
Stile and rail set
.

When using the Amana no.55360 Divided Light Door bit set you can secure the glass in the rabbet with wood strips, silicone caulk, or for a more traditional appearance, door glazing putty tinted to match the color of the wood.



You mentioned one time a way to get cope and stick doors with a long tenon. Is there a preferred way to achieve the looks of a cope an stick with the strength of a long tenon in the complementary mortise?

Victor, MT
-Don


Lonnie replies:

Amana now has two cabinet door making bit sets which feature strong mortise-and-tenon joinery and coped sticking. Tools no.47515 and 54175 create a mating cope-and-stick panel door. Amana no.55360 creates a cope-and-stick divided light door. Both products use real mortise-and-tenon joinery for strength.

Still another method is to use a roundover profile, such as Amana Tool no.49514, for the decorative sticking and cut miters at the corners. This is a tried-and-true method that allows you to use real mortise-and-tenon joinery with any sticking profile that you choose. This is also the method that I use at my school when teaching how to construct paneled doors with mortise and tenon joinery.

 


 


Finger Grip Bit by Amana Tool 53812
Finger Grip Bit by Amana Tool 53812
Finger Grip Bit by Amana Tool 53812
Finger Grip Bit by Amana Tool 53812
Finger Grip Bit by Amana Tool 53812
Finger Grip Bit by Amana Tool 53812

Vertical Tambour Doors?

I'm making a tambour with vertical slats. However, the slats keep shifting and racking out of the grooves. How can you keep the tambours from racking? Have you run across this problem before? The bits, by the way, are awesome, and the pieces fit together beautifully. Thanks for your response.

St Helena, CA
-Mac

Lonnie replies:

I suspect that the tambour slats are too short. Just like a drawer that is too narrow for the opening, the short slats rack and bind. I've tried the slats in vertical grooves and they slide smoothly with little effort.

To calculate the slat length, I measure the distance between the grooves and subtract 1/64". After applying the finish, I apply wax to the groove and to the slat ends.



Doors and Cabinet?

I want to build three layer doors and want to know which router bit set would let me shape the stiles and rails that would fit each other. ie the set that would be the reverse profile to each other.

Bakersfield, CA
-Emilio

Lonnie replies:

Amana has a number of router bit sets for constructing cabinet doors. The popular InStile sets such as Amana no.55433 adjust to accommodate undersized
plywood panels. The Amana Two-Piece sets use mating stile and rail cutters and are available in three popular profiles such as the no.55430 ogee. The most economical option is the Amana Reversible Stile and Rail bits such as the no.55370.



Livingroom cabinet raised panel doors?

I'm making my first attempt at making a set of cabinets. The fronts and doors will be constructed of Cherry wood. The doors will be made of 5/4 stock. I would like to make the panels out of solid pieces of crotch or figured wood to add detail to the cabinets. My concern with this is that the solid panel will warp. Could you please give me your opinion if this is a wise choice for the type of wood and panel construction I have chosen? Thank
you for your time, I always enjoy reading your articles.

Glendale, NY
-Jeff

Lonnie replies:

Raised PanelCherry wood makes a beautiful set of kitchen cabinets; in fact, I constructed the kitchen cabinets in my home from cherry. I would not hesitate to use solid wood for the frame-and-panel doors, the cabinet face frame, and the drawers. Solid wood is beautiful and strong and the door panels will remain flat as long as the wood is dried to seven percent moisture content before construction starts.

I would resist the temptation to use thick material for the doors; 3/4" to 7/8" frame stock is enough for strong joints and resistance to warpage. In fact, the doors and drawers appear more refined if they appear thinner. This is easily accomplished with inset or lipped doors. I built lipped doors for my own kitchen cabinets. The doors are 7/8" thick. I cut a 5/8" rabbet around the door perimeter with the Amana Prestige Dado Set. When the door is closed, most of the thickness is inside of the cabinet. I shaped the "lip" on the outside of the door with the Amana 3/16" radius corner rounding bit #49502. I prefer a traditional raised panel profile and so I used the Amana #54117.

As for the crotchwood, I'm sure that you know that it is a favorite of mine. I suggest that you save it and use it on a special piece of furniture. Crotchwood is rare and expensive and if you ever decide to move the heirloom furniture can go to the next house.



Livingroom cabinet raised panel doors?

I have to duplicate existing doors. I am using the Amana #55420 and #54227 router bits. Here is the issue. Looking at the back of the doors, there is no gap between back of panel and rail and stiles. Also, the panel is inset from the back by about 1/8" on 13/16" stock. Using the Amana back cutter gives a curve which allows a spacing to be in the back of the door. If the back cutter was square instead of curved, there would be no gap. I think I have to revert to taking off the back cutter, cut the raised panel front, then using a 3/4" straight cutter, cut the lower edges of the back panel to eliminate the panel/stile/rail gap. Is there a square 2 1/8" x 5/16" x 5/16" back cutter I could replace the curved one with? Am I doing something wrong to need this?

Vienna, VA
-Doug

Lonnie replies:

You can use the Amana no.49302 rabbet bit to cut a square recess in the back. However, keep in mind that if you're using a solid wood panel that space is required for seasonal wood movement. In other words, as the relative humidity rises in the summer months, the panel will expand across the grain an it will need approximately 1/16" on each edge to prevent pushing the door frame apart.



Roll top desk?

My questions concern the groove into which the tambour slides on my roll top desk project. The tambour is constructed using Amana's tambour router bit set. Amana literature shows the groove to be 9/16" wide. First question: do you have a pattern type router bit that you would recommend to rout the groove. Second question: the distance between the two side panels in which the tambour will slide is 59". Would you recommend the groove to be deeper than 1/4" (used with the breadbox plans) because of the length of the tambour (slide panels are 15/16" thick)? Last question: I am planning on staining the tambour slats individually and spraying each slat using a water borne lacquer, is this acceptable?

Alliance, OH
-Chuck

Lonnie replies:

At the present time we have not added a 9/16" pattern bit to the catalog; we suggest that you use a 9/16" straight bit with a bushing attached to the sub-base of the router.

Using a 3/8" deep groove on a 60" span is a good idea. Just be certain that the stock thickness is sufficient for the added depth.

As long as the lacquer is hard (as opposed to a softer finish such as a thick coat of varnish) the tambour should slide smoothly. If you're concerned then it may be a good idea to mask the ends of the slats and simply apply wax to the contact surfaces.



Cabinet raised panels doors?

In your video you recommend allowing 1/8" for seasonal expansion. Is that for vertical, horizontal or both?

Warren, MI
-David

Divided LightLonnie replies:

The frame-and-panel is a centuries old design that provides a beautiful way to deal with the seasonal expansion and contraction of solid wood. As you're probably aware, wood expands and contracts as the relative humidity rises and falls. However, the movement only takes place across the grain. So solid wood door panels actually shrink in the winter months and expand during the warm, humid months of summer. The stiles and rails of the frame in a frame-and-panel door have a narrow groove in which the panel is free to "float". This design keeps the outer dimensions of the door consistent regardless of the time of the year while preventing the panel from splitting or warping.

As a rule-of-thumb, most species of wood will expand and contract approximately 1/16" per foot from winter to summer. Some woods, such as maple, move a little more, while others, such as walnut, are more stable. I know from experience that when constructing furniture and cabinets, such as a paneled door, as long as I allow for 1/8" per foot there will be no problems with warpage or splitting due to seasonal wood movement.

When constructing the frame of a door, there is no need to allow for seasonal expansion at each end of the panel, just the sides. However, it is less work to just cut the frame groove to the same depth on both the stiles as well as the rails.




Does Amana make a cutterhead for traditional raised panel doors?

-HJ


Lonnie replies:

Yes, the Amana no.54117 raised panel router bit shapes a traditional profile which is suitable for 18th century reproductions. For woodworkers with a shaper, Amana offers the no.984 shaper cutter. Both of these tools create a 15 degree bevel along the panel edge.


Tradional Raised Panel Door Router Bit


Hello Lonnie, I just bought a set of TRS-210 glass panel bits. I have made plenty of cabinet doors in the past. How do you set up the slot cutter bit so that I can make the cut right the first time? It came w/o instructions. Just need a little guidance. Thank you.

Beulah, MI
-Norman


Lonnie replies:

First shape a stile. Then position the glass into the rabbet and mark the groove location with a layout knife. Next, adjust the slot cutter height to align with the knife line.




The end panels are made separate and applied they are approx. 29.25T x18.5w. What size should the stiles and rails be?

Sherrard, Il
-Robert


Lonnie replies:

Judging from the size of the panel, the stiles and rails would look balanced at approximately three inches wide. I suggest that you make a full-sized sketch to determine the exact size before cutting the stock.




I would like to make some raised panel drawer fronts. Can I use the same router bits as for the doors or will they be too large?
Thanks

Burbank, CA
-Angela


Lonnie replies:

Some cabinetmakers use a frame-and-panel for a drawer front. Others simply use the panel as a false front without the frame. The door bits are not too large for drawer fronts but you'll need to decide whether or not you like the appearance. Amana also makes a number of drawer front profiling bits from which to choose such as no.53812.


Finger Grip Bit by Amana Tool 53812
Finger Grip Bit by Amana Tool 53812

Cabinet doors?

Lonnie, I have a Amana instile two piece router bit set. I have always read to make the profiles on the stile and rails first, then cope the rail ends last. My instructions tell me to cope the rails first then the stick bit. Which is preferable.

Anamosa, Ia
- Ron

Lonnie replies:

The rule-of-thumb is always to rout ends before edges regardless of whether it is a door rail or a tabletop.

Whenever end grain is cut the trailing end tends to splinter or "blowout". If the long grain or edge of the stock is last to be shaped the tearout will be removed. In contrast, if the end is shaped after the edges, there will be blowout in the edge profile and no way to remove it without ripping the stock smaller and shaping the edge a second time.


Tall shaker cabinet?

Following the directions of your Divided Light Cabinet Door set #55360 step 3 says that the mortises should be cut to a depth of 3/4 in.. Then it says "remember to cut the mortises all the way through the stock for the horizontal mullions. Do the horizontal mullions go through the stock to the outside of the door frame? And if so how is this done?

Long Valley, NJ

Divided LightLonnie replies:

On a divided light door, such as the Amana no.55360, the mullions are the narrow bars on the door interior that separate the individual panes of glass. The outer frame members are the stiles and rails. Where the mullions intersect a mortise and tenon joint is used.

The mortise must be cut completely through the mullion to accept the tenons of the adjoining members. You can cut the mortises with your favorite method. Personally, I prefer a hollow chisel mortiser.


Tall shaker cabinet?

What is the bevel in degree's of shaker doors? I am confused? is it 8, 15, 20, or 22 1/2 ? thank you for your help.

Auburn, KS
- Tom

Lonnie replies:

Like all details in hand-crafted furniture from the past, there are variations among surviving pieces of furniture. As a rule-of-thumb, the degree of bevel found on the doors of Shaker furniture is short and relatively steep.


Tambour door for enclosed TV stand?

Will a tambour door work in a vertical position?

North Port, FL
- Jerry

Tambour Door Application photo of BreadboxLonnie replies:

Yes, a tambour made with the Amama Tambour Bits will work smoothly horizontally or vertically. It's important to smooth the ends of the tambour slats and the bottom of the groove by sanding lightly. Also, after finishing I apply a light coat of paste wax and buff the surfaces. This reduces the friction as the tambour slides in the groove.



Raised panels?

I have a new Kreg router table of which I am completely satisfied. What type of Amana two piece stile and rail router bits do you recommend for 3/4 inch stock? Also what type of Amana raised panel (ogee style) router bit do you recommend for 3/4 inch stock? I prefer bits that I can use "straight out of the box" and I don't have to adjust anything, take anything off or add to. I have looked at so many bits that I am completely confused.

Also, In what situations would you want to use a bit with a back cutter.

Eagle River, Ak
- Charles

Lonnie replies:

Amana makes several types of stile & rail bits which make it easy to create raised panel doors. Here are the choices:

-Reversible bits, such as no.55350, are the most economical because one bit is used to create the decorative edge profile and the mating end cut on the ends of the rails. Using this type of bit requires that you disassemble the bit and re-arrange the cutters for the second cut.

-One-Piece bits, such as Amana no.55462, have both the decorative edge profile and the mating end profile stacked on the same bit. To use both profiles the bit is raised or lowered in the router table.

-InStile bits, such as Amana no.55436 come as a two bit set. These patented router bits adjust to fit undersized plywood panels. This prevents the door panel from rattling when the door is used. Most of today's plywood is undersized, in other words, it is thinner than advertised. These innovative bits can be adjusted to fit the plywood. This is important if you plan to use plywood panels in your doors.

-Two-piece bits, such as Amana no.55430, come packaged as a two bit set. One bit cuts the decorative edge and panel groove; the second bit shapes the mating end on the rails. This is an easy set to use.

Amana no.54121 raised panel bit is for 5/8" thick door panel stock. The height of the bit must be adjusted in the table so that the panel edge fits the groove in the door frame.

Raised panel bits with a back cutter, such as Amana no.54221, allow you to use thicker panel stock. Also, the back cutter ensures a good fit between the panel edge and the frame groove.




Can you glue the panel to the door frame?

Some people say that we can glue flat panel in frame and panel doors. But others say no, not because of little movement of flat panel, but because the
movement of the frame... Your advice? Thanks

- Kevin

Lonnie replies:

It depends upon the panel stock. If the stock is solid wood it will expand and contract with changes in the seasons regardless of whether it is a flat panel or raised panel. However, a flat panel made from plywood can be safely glued into the frame with no problems. The solid stock used for the stile and rail framework surrounding the panel is too narrow to create a seasonal wood movement problem and, besides, the stiles and rails can still move in a direction away from the panel. You'll have no problems gluing a plywood panel into the frame.

Today's plywood is usually undersized and for a rattle free door you may want to try the Amana InStile Door Making Router Bits.




On your webpage: amanatool.com/bits-fv/55386.html you show drawer lock router bits. What I am looking for is the router to make the drawer front as illustrated in the picture. I have looked everywhere and cannot find it, and then see it here. Can you let me know which one this is please?

Fresno, CA
- Donna

Lonnie replies:

Amana makes a number of router bits, such as nos.53820 and 49562, that are designed for profiling the edge of doors and drawers. Also, there are a
number of other bits, such as no. 54282, that will work, too.




I am interested in using your tambour router bit set in a roll top desk project. I have not finalized on my plan selection, but I do want to make the desk large. I have seen widths of 56", 62", and 68". Is there a maximum length to the tambour when using the Amana set of bits.

Alliance, Oh
- Chuck

Lonnie replies:

We suggest that you limit the length of the tambour to 60 inches. Longer lengths may sag because the tambour strips are supported only at each end.




We recently had kitchen cabinets made. We ordered Shaker style in maple. The cabinetmaker made the doors out of plywood with maple panels.
He said that the doors are maple and will not remake them. Are cabinet doors normally made from plywood? We thought we were getting
solid maple doors? These are very, very thin plywood. Are we being totally ripped off?

Taft, TN
- Ronald

Lonnie replies:

Almost all kitchen cabinets are constructed from a combination of solid wood and plywood; plywood is strong, relatively inexpensive, and, unlike solid wood, it is very convenient when making the large panels needed for the construction of kitchen cabinets.

On better cabinets, solid wood is often used for structural areas that take a lot of strain and abuse while veneered plywood is used for much of the other components. For example, the framework of a stile-and-rail cabinet door is usually solid wood to provide strength at the corners. However, the panel is often plywood with a veneer to match the frame.

As for your cabinets, I seriously doubt that you've been "ripped off". That depends upon the wording in your contract for the cabinets. Unless the contract stated "solid maple throughout" the contractor was free to use veneered plywood. There are many reasons to use veneer: to create matching drawers and doors, to create visually appealing surfaces that cannot be created with solid wood, or simply to contain costs. In other words, veneer does not necessarily equate with lower quality. In fact, sometimes a veneered surface can costs considerably more than solid wood.

Even though the plywood in your cabinet doors is thin, it's most likely sufficient for strength. I suggest that you enjoy your cabinets and not worry that some of the components are plywood.




I have just bought the Amana divided light door bit set and I'm not sure how the stiles and rails are joined together. I have the directions and I can see how the mortises and tenons are cut. It appears in the instruction sheet that the horn is cut off the stile but in the picture on page 97 of the Amana catalog it is not. If I could see a picture of the end of the stile, I think that I could figure it out. If you could help, I would really appreciate it.

Washington, NC
- Jerry

Lonnie replies:

I remember the first time that I constructed a true divided light door with mortise-and-tenon joinery; it can be quite a puzzle. The Amana Divided Light Door Set no.55360 makes the process somewhat easier because the bit set creates the tenon.

For the greatest strength, it's important to stop the mortise-and-tenon joint before reaching the end of the stile. At the end of the stile the excess tenon is trimmed away on the rail. On the stile it is necessary to trim away a very small portion of the "sticking", just the small fillet below the roundover. I've included a close-up drawing which may help.




The 32mm holes for the European hinges are very close (3/32") to the edge of the cabinet door and 7/16" deep. When I machined a profiled edge to the test door the 32mm holes broke through. Looking at the photo on the 55360 bit set page it appears European hinges were used AND a profile similar to what I used the perimeter on those doors. Question is how'd they do that? What bit was used to machine the perimeter of those doors yet cleared the hinge mounting holes?

Decatur, Il
- Frederick

Lonnie replies:

It sounds as though you have a European hinge that will not work for the type of door that you are constructing. There are three basic types of cabinet doors: overlay, flush, and lipped. Each of the three types position the door differently in relation to the cabinet stile.

As the name implies, overlay doors fit over the cabinet door opening and consequently so not really need to fit the opening. This makes it easy to hang the door; the door does not really fit the opening, instead, it simply covers the opening. Of course the door sits completely proud of the cabinet face and to some it may appear unrefined.

Flush fitting doors fit inside the cabinet between the stiles and rails.This style of cabinet door has made a strong comeback recently because it has a traditional, refined appearance. Of course it requires lot of time, skill and effort to carefully fit each door to it's opening.

A lipped door appears refined because, unlike an overlay door, most of the door thickness is inside of the cabinet when the door is in the closed position. The edges of a lipped door are rabbetted and slightly overlap the cabinet stiles and rails. Unlike a flush fitting door, this method hides the seam at the door perimeter and the fitting process is not quite as time-consuming or tedious.

I suggest that you talk to a representative at the hinge dealer and explain what you need. He will be able to recommend the appropriate European hinge.




I just purchased the tambour router bit set. I am really excited to try it out....but I was disappointed in one thing. I really expected to have dimensions given for what height to set the bits. I read in the woodworking magazine that I will have to test it before starting cutting....which I always do, but I really expected to get the measurements. You have told us what size to cut the wood to, but nothing else.....any reason why not?

Kearney, MO
- Richard

Lonnie replies:

Providing a height measurement only serves to complicate the setup process, especially since most woodworkers do not have a tool which will provide a precise measurement to the end of the ball-end cutter.

Have to make a test cut? When setting up a router table I routinely make a test cut. Taking a minute to test the setup is the best method for ensuring that the cut is exactly what is required.

Adjusting the height of the tambour bits, as with most profile router bits, is intuitive. Simply align the lowest portion of the tambour bit profile with the top of the router table. It's quite easy.

View Tambour Router Bit Set




Lonnie, I am building the corner china cabinet that I saw in one of your books (The Virginia corner unit with divided lite upper door). My question is concerning the divided lite door...I can mill the mullions between my shaper and router but am having difficulty making the cross lap milling where they intersect. What is the best method for milling the mating joints, particularily the 45 degree cuts required?

Darlington, SC
- Mark T.

Lonnie replies:

Instead of a cross-lap joint, I suggest that you use the Amana Divided Light Door Bit Set. The set #55360 uses mortise-and-tenon construction which is stronger and much easier to construct.

When using a mitered joint with a half-lap on a narrow mullion the miters substantially reduce the width of the narrow mullion and weaken it. However, the mortise-and-tenon with a cope, which is the joint used on the Amana set, is strong because it does not reduce the width of the mullion.

The Amana set also has an attractive traditional profile which will compliment the corner cabinet that you are building.

By the way, the book that you've mentioned is not mine. It is a compilation of projects by several different woodworkers. The book's editor decided to use the mitered joint in the illustrations.




divided light door

I am making shaker style doors for a cabinet that I am building. I am purchasing Amana no. 55360, divided light door bit set. How are the mullions assembled in the middle of the door? I do not have a tool to use the mortises. Do you have any other ideas on how to make the mortise?

Alexandria, MN
- Mark

Lonnie replies:

The Amana Tool Divided Light Door Set no.55360 relies on true mortise-and-tenon joinery for strength. True mortise-and-tenon joinery is strong because of the large surface area for glue and the mechanical interlock between the mating parts of the joint. You can cut the mortises with a hollow chisel mortise machine or you can simply drill out the mortise and square the sides with a bench chisel.


Divided Light Router Bit Set

I have over 700 slats 25" long made and sealed--- ready to start on the case -- I will rout 9/16 groove in case side. How much total space do I need at the tambour end?

Florida
- Vernon

Lonnie replies:

When making a cabinet with a tambour I draw a cross-section to determine the space required for the tambour slats. The cross-sectional views show the tambour in open and closed position.

Another method is to simple slide the tambour slats together and measure the length of the complete tambour. The tambour groove must be a little less than twice the length of the complete tambour. This will allow you to grasp the end of the tambour and slide it to a closed position.

If you have additional questions please feel free to contact us.

View our Tambour Router Bit Set


Tambour Slats

I am trying to make shaker style doors with that bead on the inside of the rails and stiles.I would like to buy a Amana Tool (55433) router bit to do this.I would like the inside bead to have a 45 degree miter bevel in all 4 corners of the door.How would I do this? None of the amana pictures have a close uo view of this corner. Do you have any pictures of what the corner looks like using this bit? Can you get this 45 degree bevel using a router bit? Some online research shows some guys using a chisel to do this but I cant figure out how they do it. Thanks for your help.

Miami Beach, FL
- Robert

Lonnie replies:

Making a door with a beaded frame is quite easy. You can miter the bead in the corners by using a tablesaw. Here is a link to the page on the Amana Tool website which illustrates the technique and shows the tools that you'll need: http://www.amanatool.com/articles/Constructing_a_Beaded_Face_Frame.html .
Although the article illustrates a face frame, I use the technique often for making doors simply by milling a groove for the door panel.

If you have additional questions please feel free to contact us.



Amana offers two Mission Style router bit sets for constructing Arts & Crafts style doors. The only difference seems to be in the depth of the groove, 3/8" or 1/2". It seems like making the groove deeper won't make the joint stronger. I'm working with 4/4 stock & 1/4 plywood. Which bit set would you recommend and why?

Birmingham, MI
- Dermont

Lonnie replies:

One of the primary ways that joints get their strength is by "long-grain" glue surfaces. For example, all traditional joinery that has stood the test of time, such as dovetails, mortise-and-tenon and tongue-and-groove, all incorporate long-grain gluing surfaces. And as the glue surface area is increased the strength of the joint increases as well.

I recommend the Amana Mission Style Cabinet door set no.55439 because of the greater surface area in the joint.



Is there a source for a stub spindle to fit a Woodtek 3hp shaper? Do I need to have one made by a machine shop? Is there a blank or a spindle that one could start with and machine to fit ?

West Yellowstone, MT
- Bruce

Lonnie replies:

Stub spindles are used for cutting the cope when making doors for furniture and cabinets or even large architectural doors. The cope is on the shoulder of the tenon and the reverse profile of the cope matches the decorative "sticking" profile on the edges of the stiles and rails.

Unlike the typical shaper spindle which has external threads, the stub spindle has internal threads and the cope cutter is counterbored and held on the spindle with a cap screw. This allows the tenon to ride over the cutter unobstructed. The entire concept is an old one that dates to the nineteenth century when doors and furniture were first machine made and mass-produced.

When I first started woodworking over thirty years ago, cope cutters and stub spindles were still commonly available. Over the years, the idea has been largely been replaced by cope-and-stick bits which, although easy to set up and use, lack the full length tenon associated with fine furniture.

However, to meet the resurging demand for tools that will cut the cope and allow you to make doors with long tenons, Amana now offers a line of cope cutters for the router. The Stub Spindle And Cope Cutter Door System is available for architectural entry doors, cabinet and furniture doors, and even screen doors.


I have an interest in renewing the cuboards which I have in my kitchen the old ones that I have are really gone. This is why I have in interest in giving it a try in making my own cuboards. I already have a few sets of router blades and a router table and two routers, I am interest in getting routers that show different types of styling. Please let me know on your opinion. Thank you.

- Gordon

Lonnie replies:

Kitchens can look a little worn and outdated after a few years. One way to improve them without the expense of new cabinets is to replace the doors and drawers. Amana offers a number of different door making router bits that make door construction easy such as no.55420 and no.55430. These bit sets are two-piece; one bit cuts the decorative profile and panel groove and the second bit cuts the matching cope on the ends of the rails.

Amana also has a selection of panel raising bits such as no.54117 and the 54119.

We also have a video posted on our site of door construction which shows how to set up and use these versatile bits.



I am interested in your stub and spindle cope cutter door system.  I am currently constructing some cabinetry that would benefit having longer pegged tenon construction.  What I am wondering is if any of your rail and stile sets are compatible with the stub cope cutters'
profile? 

It would certainly take less time to cut the stiles with a single bit and then use the stub cope cutter to cut the rails rather than make each cut for the stiles individually.  From the online techinical specs that are available for your router bits sets, I am unable to discern whether or not the profile of the stub spindle and cope cutter will match any of your rail and stile sets.  If you could clear this up it would be greatly appreciated.

-James


Lonnie replies:

The Stub Spindle and Cope Cutter bits are not designed to work with standard cope-and-stick bits. This is because the cope-and-stick bits create a stub tenon instead of a long tenon.

However, making a set of doors is not difficult with the cope cutters bits.
The only added step is cutting a panel groove. Of course you must cut the tenon but that's the advantage of the set.

If you have other questions about this set or any other Amana Tool product please feel free to contact us.

 

 




I am interested in trying out your tambour router bit set but am not sure if my intended application will work.  I am designing an entertainment center with a tambour door that will roll up and to the back .

The opening is roughly 32" tall by 46" wide.  Is it possible to do a 46" wide tambour and not have it bind up?  I am also concerned about the weight
of the door once more than half of it gets to the back of the case.  I am planning on plying up the rails with two pieces of 1/4" tiger maple to one
1/2" piece of baltic birch plywood to minimize on twisting. 

This router bit set seems like a great approach but is it just for smaller doors?   Is there a track that anyone makes that will help the movement?  I
am definitely going to test this on a model first but I don't want to make the investment on the bits unless I think it's possible.

- Brian
Epping, NH

Lonnie replies:Tambour Slats

Although 46" is a wide expanse I see no reason why the tambour will not work for this application. In order to prevent twist or sagging of the tambour slats, it's important to select straight-grained stock that is free of warp and stress.

I understand your concern about binding. For example, wide drawers in a chest will sometimes bind if they twist or rack sideways in the opening. To prevent binding, I fit the drawers with very little side clearance. I suggest that you cut the tambour slats the same way. In other words, short slats will twist sideways in the tambour groove and bind.

Also, to help wooden drawers and tambours slide smoothly, I apply furniture paste wax to the moving parts. Once a finish is applied and the tambour and groove are waxed, very little side clearance is required for smooth operation.

Large tambours can be heavy and so as you open a large tambour it is important to grasp the end and open it gradually to prevent it from dropping into the back of the case. A large tambour is not difficult to open, but it does require care to prevent damage.

View our Tambour Router Set


I'm very interested in the Tambour bit set you've designed for Amana and I'm extremely close to buying them anyway but before I do I have a wee query... The desk I'm designing is quite low and it'll the 3 1/2" minimum radius eats away more space than I would've liked. My question is would it be possible to rip a section off the underside of each slat (one side of the socket) to allow more clearance and therefore a tighter radius?

From the Amana website the render looks like this would work and still have enough strength in the slats to hold them together...

Thanks very much from sunny Scotland!

- Calum W.
Glasgow, Scotland

Lonnie replies:Tambour Dook Making Set

While I certainly understand that you'd like the tambour to turn a tighter radius I suggest that you do not cut the slats thinner than specified.

Thinner stock would weaken the slats and they would possibly break adjacent to the socket.


I am ordering the Amana Tambour Door Bits and plan to make an appliance closet out of Hickory. A few questions:
(1) Is there any problems using this or other very hard wood?
(2) Will I need to have any concerns or make any adjustments for the Hickory or other species in the area of swelling or bowing? I know wood moves, so is this already considered in the shaping of the door?
(3 Do you suggest waxing the ball and socket of each slat before applying poly finish for long term free movement?

- Tony A.
Lyman, SC

Lonnie replies:

When shaping wood with carbide router bits you can use any type of wood that you prefer. Carbide is very hard, much harder than any wood. Carbide will wear faster when used to cut extremely dense wood but it will not damage the carbide, you'll just have to sharpen it more frequently. Amana uses only the best quality carbide on all of their tools so you can use the tool on hickory without concern.

I see no reason why you cannot use hickory for a tambour. However, as with any wood, it's important to use dry, straight-grain stock if you expect the tambour slats to remain straight.

I do suggest waxing the tambour slats, but only after the finish has completely dried. Waxing wood before applying the finish will prevent the finish from adhering to the wood.


I would like to build divided light doors. Can you recommend bits? Also, can you recommend a router and router table?

- Carmargo
Bogota Colombia

Lonnie replies:

Amana Tool has a router bit set for making true Divided Light Doors. Set no.55360 comes with two bits; the first cuts the sticking and rabbet for the glass. The second bit cuts the tenon and the cope.

Like all of today's door making router bits, you'll need a table mounted router both for accuracy and for your personal safety. I suggest a large router of 3hp or more. Although you will not need that much power for this door making set you'll need it in the future for other door making projects such as panel raising.


Regarding a router table, I suggest that you purchase one with a lift. The lift makes it easy to achieve a precise set up when working with door making and joinery bits.

Lonnie, when using beaded face frame on inset doors, what type of hinge would you use? If you use a mortised hinge, you would have to cut part of the bead out, which to me would NOT look very good. Would you use Non-Mortised hinges (Hortin Brasses). This is not a kitchen cabinet type project, so what are my options/your recomendations? Thanks

- David
Westminster, MD

Lonnie replies:

Actually, a quality brass butt hinge looks good on an inset door with a beaded face frame. Part of the bead is cut away for the hinge mortise, but the space is filled by the leaf of the hinge. Other types of doors are also fit this way. For example, lipped doors have a thumbnail profile around the perimeter and a portion of the profile is removed to accommodate the hinge. Again, it looks fine because the hinge barrel fills the void.

However, if you do not want to remove part of the bead, another option is to cut the mortise on the door stile deep enough for the entire hinge. Although the pivot point will be slightly off-center, it is not enough to affect the door as it swings.

Another option is to use "H" hinges. "H" hinges are traditional for this type of work and the "H" hinge is surface mounted so there is no need to remove part of the bead.


Brass Butt Hinge

What is the best way to make divided lite doors with diamond lites I have a 3 horse porter cable 1/2 shank in a router table  i would rather have a two piece set than a combo set thank you.

- Wallis
Mission Viejo, CA

        
Lonnie replies:

Divided light doors with diamond shapes are very challenging. I've provided an example in the drawing which uses a two-piece mullion. The main part of the mullion is a 1/8" thick strip of wood which is mortised into the stiles and rails of the doors. Where the mullions intersect at ninety degrees a half-lap joint is used. The rest use miters and epoxy.

After assembling the door the second part of the mullion is applied. This is a decorative cap which fits over the 1/8" sticks. A 1/8" wide groove under the cap strengthens the assembly and aligns the cap as it is applied. The completed door is surprisingly strong once it is fully assembled.

Glazing putty is used to hold each pane of glass in place. The putty should be tinted to match the color of the wood.

Router bits used in 54163 & 45100



diamond lite divided lite door

What is the maximine length of tambour door you can make using the bit set? I have a client that wants a built-in rolltop desk made and I need to figure out how long the door can be and still work. Any suggestions or pointers would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much for your help.     

- Ron
Angwin, CA

Lonnie replies:

I recommend that you limit the length of the tambour to 60". Many old rolltop desks are 60" across. Each slat is supported by the adjacent slats. However, the entire assembly is supported only at each end and so longer lengths may sag.

Also, when milling stock for the slats it's important to select only straight-grained stock that is free of runout and warp.



How close together do I place the slates before I apply the contact cement and canvas.  Also what is best way to hold slates in place once they are positioned for applying the canvas?  Is it possible to get the slates too tight so the tambour won\'t easily roll?             

- Richard
Tomahawk, WI

Lonnie replies:

When gluing tambours strips to the canvas backing it's important that each strip make contact with the adjacent strips; otherwise you'll see the canvas when the tambour is closed. The shape of each slat allows the tambour to flex and slide through the curved track. The tambour slats should be beveled or rounded along the edges to prevent binding.

I suggest that you use white glue for gluing the slats to the canvas.Contact cement will allow the slats to work loose over a period of time. White glue is very strong and a tambour constructed with white glue will last many years. In fact, the cloth back will wear out before the glue fails.

When gluing a tambour, I make a clamping jig which is simply two pieces of 3/4" thick plywood which I use to sandwich the slats and canvas. I tack strips of wood around the perimeter of the plywood that forms the lower half of the sandwich; the strips will create a "tray" to keep the slats in position.

I start by ironing the canvas to remove all wrinkles. Then I position the canvas in the tray and apply white glue with a stiff, wide brush. Next, I quickly and carefully position the slats side-by-side on the canvas. Then I apply the second piece of plywood over the slats and apply pressure with clamps and cauls. After the glue has had a half-hour to set I remove the clamps and carefully remove any glue squeeze-out from between the slats. After 30 minutes the glue will be firmly set but the squeeze-out will be soft enough that you can peel it off with a sharp chisel.

Over the years, I've made a number of tambours this way. It's a very tedious process. I suggest that you try Amana's Tambour Bit Set. This unique router bit set shapes tambours that interlock like a ball-and-socket joint. And unlike the glue and canvas method, making a tambour with the bits is quite easy; after shaping the tambour slats, they just slide together.

Click here to view our patented Tambour Router Bit set that uses no glue, cloth or wires.

Amana Tool tambour set


Would you outline the steps to making wainscot cabinet doors.

- Gary
Millington, MD

Lonnie replies:

Wainscot cabinet doors consist of a stile-and-rail framework surrounding thin tongue-and-groove wainscot. I suggest using 3/4" thick stock for the door frame. You can join the corners of the frame with Amana Tool no.55401 which will also cut the 3/8" groove for the wainscot.

The 3/8" thick wainscot can be a tongue-and-groove or half-lap assembly. It's important that the wainscot fit snug in the panel groove and that no glue is used on the wainscot to allow for seasonal wood movement.

Tools Required
Corner Beading Router Bit No. 54162
Rabbeting Router Bit No. 49300
Slotting Cutter Assembly No. 53306-1
Tongue & Groove Assembly No. 55401


Wainscot Cabinet Doors

Few issues back, I read your article in Fine Woodworking magazine on how to build better doors using mortise and tenon instead of the regular 7/16 joint made using matched stile and rail set. 

I would like to say thank you very much for that article and ever since then, I have been using your described approach to build doors.  However, the process is time consuming since you have to do each step, profile, 1/4 slot, cutting 45 degree where the stile meets rail etc..

My question to you is whether or not there is a match stile and  rail set that produces long or deep tenons, like 1-1/4" long tenon.  Is there an alternative or much quicker approach to achieving 1-1/4" deep mortise and tenon.

Please review and let me know.  I look forward to hearing from you.

Thank you

-Ali
Yorkville, IL

Lonnie replies:

The molding profile around the inside edges of stiles and rails is referred to as "sticking". Where the intersects in the corners it must be mitered or coped. Both methods have their advantages.

One advantage to mitering the sticking is that you can choose most any profile, even those, such as Amana Tool no.54162, that are impossible to cope. However, mitering each corner and removing the excess sticking at the mortise is time-consuming, especially when you're constructing a kitchen full of doors.

A much more efficient method is to cope the sticking. Amana has a Cabinet Door Bit Set, nos.47515 and 54175, which are part of the Stub Spindle & Cope Cutter Door System. The first bit shapes an ogee sticking profile and the matching cope bit, no.47515, cuts the cope on the tenon shoulder. With this unique system you can make the tenon any length that you want.









The doors for the wall unit are raised panel doors and i have some doors which are curved , how do i do the raise panel on curved wood?             

-Shlomo C.
Brooklyn, NY

Lonnie replies:

To shape a raised panel which is curved on the edge you can use any of the horizontal raised panel bits such as Amana Tool no.54119. Because a fence cannot be used for curved stock you'll need to use a starting pin to position the work and pivot the edge into the spinning bit. Once the edge makes contact with the guide bearing feed the stock from right to left in the usual way. Because you are not using the fence it is very important to use a guard to cover the bit and provide a barrier to protect your hands.

Panels which are curved on the face can be shaped on end with one of Amana's vertical raised panel bits such as no.54524. Use a curved auxiliary fence with a radius to match the radius of the panel. A featherboard with a curved end should be used to keep the panel positioned against the fence during the cut.


Hi Lonnie, I'm planning on using your Divided Light Cabinet Door Router Bit Set (#55360) to make some exterior architectural windows. I'm a cabinetmaker and have little experience with door making - we always order out. Looking at the website I understand how to join the rails and stiles of the frame and how to cope the mullions and muntins to the frame but my question is: how do the mullions and muntins interlock? Is there additional machinery I'm going to need (like some sort of press) to make that joint possible? Or is this set all I need to fabricate the entire door (minus the mortises of course)? Thanks for your time.

-Chad
Baton Rouge, LA

Lonnie replies:

We designed divided light door set no.55360 to be easy to use. Because the set is designed to make strong doors with real mortise-and-tenon joinery you'll need to cut mortises with Timberline Hollow Chisel Mortise Bit #609-100, but the tenons are cut by the set. We also include step-by-step instructions with drawings and photos which clearly explain how to make a door with the set.

 







Could you please tell me how to bet way cut and join a beaded face frame for cabinets. I am planning on buying the Hoffman beaded frame set but it too expensive for just cutting joints for frames, any ideas please?

- Jason
London

Lonnie replies:

A beaded faceframe on furniture or cabinets is a sign of quality. It is a fine detail that takes time and craftsmanship to properly execute but it is certainly worth the extra effort.

Beaded faceframes are also a great way to show off inset doors. Unlike an overlay door, an inset door fits inside the faceframe and must be carefully fitted with a hand plane. The precision of the fit adds to the quality and fine craftsmanship of the cabinet.

The strongest way to construct a beaded frame is with time-honored mortise-and-tenon joints. After the joints are cut the bead is shaped on the rails and stiles and then mitered at the corners where the beads intersect.

Amana makes a complete line tools for this technique including corner beading bits in sizes from 1/16 to 3/8 radius so that you can select a bead that is in proportion to the work that you're doing. For example, for the corner cupboard in photo A, I used a 1/8" radius bead, Amana Tool corner beading no. 54162. For the sample in the photo essay I used a 3/32" radius bead, Amana Tool corner beading router bit no.54163.


Here are the steps to beading a frame:

STEP 1
Lay out the mortises. --Keep in mind that the mortise must be offset on the inside corner to allow room for mitering (see illustration). The offset is equal to the bead plus the quirk, or groove behind the bead. For example, the 3/16" diameter bead that I used has a 1/16" wide quirk. So the offset is equal to 1/4". Outside corners should be haunched to avoid weakening the frame.

 



STEP 2

Cut the mortise—I cut the mortises with a Timberline no.609-120 3/8” hollow chisel. Keep in mind that the mortise must be cut 1/4” deeper than desired. Later on, when the 1/4" wide bead is mitered and cut away, the mortise will be the correct depth.

 



STEP 3
Cut the tenons—before cutting the tenons I cut the rails to length. The rail length must be increased by two times the width of the bead; this compensates for the loss of the bead at the mortises. I cut the tenons on the tablesaw with an Amana Prestige stacking dado set. The miter gauge guides the stock at ninety degrees and the fence on the saw limits the length of the tenon.

 



STEP 4
Mount the Amana Tool corner beading router bit no.54163, 3/16” beading bit in the router table and set the height precisely to 1/4"

 



STEP 5
Shape the bead—shape the bead on the inside edges of both the stiles and rails

 


STEP 6
Set up for the miter—the miters are cut on the tablesaw using the miter gauge at ninety degrees and the blade angled to forty-five degrees. A line on the backing board attached to the miter gauge is used to align the stock for an accurate cut. I use the Amana Prestige saw blade for mitering the bead; it cuts smooth without burning or splintering.


The first step is to tilt the blade to 45 degrees. Then adjust the height of the blade so that the tooth tip just touches the edge of the quirk

 




STEP 7
Miter the rails—align the shoulder of the tenon with the layout line on the backing board.

 


STEP 8
Miter the stiles—align the inside edge of the bead with the layout line on the backing board.

 


STEP 8
Remove the bead at the mortise—cut the excess bead from the stile at the mortise and assemble the frame

 

 



I have some home grown Red Oak that I have been milling to make Mission style flat panel doors & drawer fronts for my kitchen cabinets.  I recently purchaced a Amana "instile" bit set item #55438 to cut my rails & stiles to accomodate so called 1/4 inch plywood.  The plywood that I will be using for the flat panels measures 0.195" .  The instructions that came with the bit set states that the bit can be adjusted from 0.196 to 0.278 . How can I do this with the two cutters that measure 0.14" ( 0.14 + 0.14 = 0.28) I need a grove 0.196"? Please straighten me out .  I'm confused!
Thank You

-Carl M.
Canton, MA

Lonnie replies:

The InStile & Rail door making bit sets have stacking cutters and shims so that you can fine-tune the groove for an exact fit with the plywood that you're using for the door panel. No more rattling door panels!

When stacking the cutters on the shank it is important to stagger them so that the carbide teeth do not touch. So even though each carbide tooth measures 0.140" wide, the groove (with just the cutters and no shims) will be 0.196", or 3/16". This works because the teeth on the two cutters overlap.






I am designing a roll top AV cabinet for a local church and came across an ad for your new tambour router bits.  I think that they would work well for my project, especially since part of the inside of the tambour will be seen
when the cabinet is open.   Do you have a minimum radius recommendation?

-Brad E.
Fayetteville, AR

Lonnie replies:

Our new Tambour Bit Set has several advantages over traditional tambours: there's no need for cloth or wires, the tambours simply slide together during assembly. And as you have pointed out, the back of the tambour is as attractive as the front.

We wanted the new set to be versatile so that woodworkers could use it on everything from rolltop desks to kitchen appliance garages. The tambour that you make with our set will easily turn a 3-1/2" radius.





Tambour Dook Making Set

I am working on a kitchen cabinet with a tambour door appliance garage that measures 30"W x 18"H. I am looking at your
tambour door router bit set and have a couple of questions:
-- How tight of a radius can this door withstand when it rolls up?
-- How is the door set into a rail? Would any rail and dowel kit work? Or, is the unit designed to just roll up in a wooden track? -

-Mike
Salem, OR


Lonnie replies:

The tambour can easily slide through a groove with a radius of 3-1/2" and slides in a groove 9/16" wide.

View Tambour Illustration




Tambour Dook Making Set

I purchased one of your Stile and Rail router bit sets from my local dealer.  I looked at the instructions and there was not a specific listing for your set. However, other similar sets said to run at 16,000 RPM (I believe that was to correct number) I set my router speed to what other similar routers bits were and I got a lot of splintering from inside the groove and a little edge.  Most of these doors are going to have glass panes in them, so the splintering will show when the door is open.  The doors are all made out of red oak.  Any thoughts or recommendations as to what I did wrong?

 - Jim
Ontario, CA

Lonnie replies:


Oak is very dense and the grain is coarse which can make it difficult to work. Here are a few suggestions:

1. Cut the profiles on the ends first--using this method allows you to shape away minor splintering along the edge.
2. Mill the stock slightly oversized in width--after shaping the ends you can rip the stock to final width to remove splintering
3. Attach a backing board to the miter gauge--the backing board will help to minimize splintering on the trailing edge.
4. When shaping the edges use several light passes--light passes will usually minimize tearout.
5. Try reducing the feed rate--this also lightens the cut, just don't go so slow that you create a glazed or burned surface.

If this does not solve the problem please let us know.

 





I would like to build a mission style frame and flat panel doors but the stiles and rails are pie wedged shaped or 3/4 inch thick on the ouside edges but only 5/8 inch thick on the inside. How would you suggest accomplishing this   Thanks   

-Max P.
Rosharon, TX



Lonnie replies:

E-Z Dial slot cutter. Like the Amana Mission Style door bits the E-Z Dial allows you to adjust the groove to fit undersized plywood. After cutting the miters, (for super-smooth miters try the Amana Tool MS10600 miter saw blade) cut grooves for splines on the corners as well as grooves for the panel. Next, use your planer and a jig to bevel the faces of the stock before assembly.

See Illustration



I'm looking for a rail & stile set for door frames that are 1/2" thick. I will then have beveled mirrors installed in the frames to create the
doors.  I have a rail & stile set, but is for use on 3/4" frames.  Does a set for 1/2" frames exist?  Thanks in advance for your response.

-Jim
Robbinsville, NC



Lonnie replies:

To make a simple door for a medicine cabinet you can use the Amana Tool slot cutter #53308-1. This tool cuts a 3/16" wide slot; you can control the depth of the slot with the position of the fence on the router table. Use two passes of the slot cutter to cut the tenons on the ends of the rails stock. Then adjust the height to cut a groove for the mirror. 


 

What router bits do you use for the stiles and rails to cut the mortise-and-tenon joints with deep mortises.

-John V.
Crystal Lake, IL

Lonnie replies:

Deep mortise-and-tenon joinery will add to the strength of a cabinet door by increasing the glue surface area. To cut the mortises
use plunge router and Amana Tool straight plunge bit no.45414.

My favorite method for cutting tenons is with a tablesaw and Amana's stacking dado head #658030. Another option is to cut the tenon with a router table and mortising router bit no.45505. With either method, I use the miter gauge to guide the stock along with the fence to control the tenon length.

When constructing a door with mortise-and-tenon joinery you have a number of different design options. For example, you can choose to shape a decorative "sticking" profile along the inside edges of the door frame. The sticking can be cut with any number of profile bits such as Amana Tool no.49510 corner rounding router bit or no.54170 beading router bit. Where the profiles intersect in the corners of the frame I cut a miter on the stiles and rails with the tablesaw. Mitering the profile also allows you to use profiles that cannot be coped, such as the bead in the photo.

Of course you can also omit the sticking for a simple Mission Style door.

To cut the panel groove first decide what type of panel and panel material that you'll be using. Amana has a number of different raised panel profiles such as no.54119 and 54117. To cut the 1/4" frame groove for the panel you can use Amana Tool no.53210.

The Amana E-Z Dial Slot Cutter no.55500 will allow you to cut an undersized groove for a plywood door panel. Most plywood is undersized and the E-Z Dial adjusts in increments of .004" so you can achieve a perfect fit.

View Illustration - Door With Mitered Sticking
View Illustration - Mission Style Mortise and Tenon




I am preparing to build my new kitchen cabinets. I live in a log home and want a rustic look. I do not want to use alder because it is too popular here in my community, so I've decided to use hickory. I am concerned about tear-out when cutting the groove in the stiles. Will it be best for me to use a dado blade in my 3 hp unisaw or a router bit set in my 3 hp elu router. I will be doing shaker style stiles and rails with slightly more rustic panels.

-John
Park City, UT


Lonnie replies:

You'll get a cleaner cut with a router bit and using several light passes.  I suggest Amana Tool Mission Style Cabinet Door Set no.55438. This stile-&-rail bit set will give you the simple Shaker look that you're after.

For the first cut, position the fence on the router table so that the router bit lightly scores the wood surface. Because hickory is such a tough, elastic wood you may want to take 3 or four passes to eliminate the possibility of tearout. 

 

Is there a matching glass door bit for your mission router bits door set #55438. If so, I'd like to get it too, when I order the set.  The set is just what I was looking for.  
     
-Wayne S.
Yourba Linda, CA


Lonnie replies:

To construct a Mission Style door with glass panes I suggest that you use a mortise-and-tenon joint at each corner for strength. I've provided a drawing of a sample door and here are the steps:

1. Layout and cut 1/4" mortises on the stiles to accept the rails. Center the tenon on the thickness of the stock.

2. Use the Amana Tool dado head no.658030 to cut tenons on the ends of the rails and mullions. The tenon shoulders are offset 1/4" for the glass
rabbet.

3. Use the Amana Tool no.49360 Superabbet to cut a 1/4" by 1/2" rabbet along
the inside edges of the stock.

4. Assemble the door.

View illustration



I'm using the Amana raised panel shaper cutter #985, when the cutter drops below the surface of the wood to create the raised panel it chips out the edges of the cross cut only. I make the cut in several passes and nothing I've tried seams to correct the problem. Do you have any suggestions to correct this problem.
Thank you .
           
-Roy C.
Bridgeport, OH


Lonnie replies:


Shaping or routing end grain is always a greater challenge than long grain because end grain fibers are tough and can easily tear out. My solution is always to increase the cutter RPM (don't exceed the maximum rpm of 12,000) and reduce the feed rate. If tearout still occurs I score the field of the panel first at the tablesaw. This will cut the end grain cleanly and eliminate the tearout.

 

I have 6 cope & stick doors made up.  They are 16" wide and 60" tall.  I want to put 5/16" thick false muntins on the glass with a pattern that will have three X-shaped muntin patterns with or without 2 horizontals between them.  Illustration of 1/3 of the face panel follows:

cxxxxxxxxc
c            xc
xc        x  x
x   x    x    x
x     cc      x
x     x x     x
x   x     x   x
x c         x c
cxxxxxxxxc

The intersections marked c can either be coped or inset with miter saw cuts.  I'd prefer to cope them.  Do you have any router or shaper ideas that would help accompish this?



Lonnie replies:

Adding a pattern to the muntins of a glass door creates tremendous visual interest. The key to cutting and fitting the muntins is to first make an accurate full-scale drawing of the door , preferably on a smooth rigid surface such as 1/4" plywood. Then transfer the layout from the drawing directly to the parts of the door.

To shape the door, I suggest Amana bit set no.49643. As with any door shape the cope first on the ends of the rails and muntins, then shape the edge profiles and rabbet.

 

 

Could you tell me what would be the best way to make mission style cabinet doors. I need router bits too cut rails & stiles and also the door panels.

-David M.

Merrill, WI


Lonnie replies:

Mission style furniture features plain lines, sturdy construction, and rich, figured quarter sawn oak. Doors stiles and rails are wide and surround a flat panel.
I suggest that you use Amana's new Instile and Rail Mission Style Router Bit set No. 55438

 

The tiger maple secretary that is in the Fine Wood Working magazine, December 2005, ..I would like to know what cutter you used for the raised panel on the door? The panel angle looks like 45 degrees, but I cannot tell from the picture in the magazine. I liked the article very much and would like to see more 18th Century projects.

-Jan M.
Battle Creek, Michigan


Lonnie replies:

Thanks for your compliments on the secretary desk. Door panel shaper cutters and router bits are available in several profiles. I used a traditional beveled profile on the desk doors. If you're using a table mounted router
you'll want Amana Tool no.54117. For a shaper cutter of the same profile use Amana Tool no.984.

View Illustration


 

Thank you for your prompt responce to my previous questions.  I have taken your suggestion and cut dowm the waist section to making  the moulding gap equal on all sides. 

I shifted gears and began looking at the door layout and realized there is a little more to it considering the lip extends on three sides only.  In order to keep the door centered and looking symetrical the 1/4 lip has to be accounted for in some fashion.

Once again I appreciate your comments.

-Stephen S.
Wilmington, NC

Lonnie replies:

The rabbet on a clock door is unique because it overlaps on just three sides, the top, bottom, and lock side. The hinge side cannot overlap because the lip would bind on the case as the door is opened. Also, to prevent binding as the door is opened, the rabbet is beveled. The overlap is only 1/8", which is not noticed.

I use Amana Tool no. 49502 to shape the small 3/16" radius thumbnail profile around the door perimeter. To shape the rabbet I use the Amana Superabbet equipped with collar no.67404. This setup will allow you to shape the rabbet along the arch at the top edge of the door. After shaping I carve the inside corners of the rabbet and thumbnail.


Illustration 1
Illustration 2
View Photo
 

What bit do you recommend for the edge treatment on the dresser drawer fronts you made for Popular Woodworking? I was planning on using a router table and figured it should be a 1/2 shank.

-Sam R.

Ft Wayne, IN


Lonnie replies:

The drawers in that article have traditional lipped fronts. When closed, most of the thickness of the drawer front is inside of the case. This makes the drawer fronts appear thin and refined. To create a lipped drawer front the stock is first cut slightly larger than the drawer opening. Next, the edges at the top and sides are rabbetted to create the lip. This step is critical because it determines the fit of the drawer. After rabbeting, the front edges of the drawer are shaped with a small "thumbnail" profile.

To create the rabbet I use the Amana Superabbet bit no.49360. I prefer the Superabbet to ordinary rabbeting bits; the large diameter and superior cutting angle create a very smooth surface, even on the tough end-grain of the drawer fronts.

To create the thumbnail profile I use Amana 3/16" roundover bit no.49502.


View Illustration
 

I saw the ad in Jan-Feb issue 13 of  "Router Magazine" for the "Amana instile and rail system."

I am trying to make a panel door for a cabinet.  I have a rail and stile set of bits, but, the groove for the panel is 3/16". I want to put a 1/4" bead board panel in the door.  What bit set would be best to use? 

-Calvin F.
Brookville, IN


Lonnie replies:

Plywood makes a good door panel because, unlike natural wood, it's relatively stable. This allows you to glue the panel into the frame which increases the strength of the door(don't try that with natural wood, the panel will crack when the seasonal humidity changes).

However, most of today's plywood and beaded plywood paneling is undersized. This results in a loose panel that rattles each time the door is opened. The solution is to use the Amana InStile and Rail bits. These unique bits have shims which allow you to adjust the panel groove for a perfect fit with the plywood. And they're available in several different profiles.

 

#1 - I was told by an Amana expert that when I buy a raised panel cutter I should buy one with a back-cutter.  Exactly why is this best for this application?  Also, I will be buying the large type for flat routing on a table.

#2 - Is a Reversible stile & rail assembly less precise a bit than, say, an instile type bit?


-Darrell M.
SAN FRANCISCO, CA


Lonnie replies:

Raised panel router bits are available with or without a back cutter. The back cutter ensures that the edge of the panel will precisely fit the groove in the frame, even if the panel is thicker than the standard panel thickness of 5/8". Panel cutters without a back cutter work well, too. But the setup is somewhat fussy; you must precisely adjust the height of the bit for a good fit in the frame groove.

Cope-and-stick bits allow you to quickly and easily make stile-and-rail doors for furniture and cabinets. There are two basic types, reversible and two-piece.

Reversible bits are an economical choice because you only need one bit to cut both the "cope" and the matching "stick". However, reversible bits require that you disassemble the bit and re-arrange the parts on the shank for the second cut. Also, the decorative "sticking" profiles on reversible bits are limited to symmetrical shapes that can be inverted to create both series of cuts. Reversible bits are not less precise than other types, they just require time to rearrange the parts.

As the name implies, two piece cope-and-stick sets come with two bits; one bit cuts the cope on the ends of the rails, the matching bit cuts the decorative "sticking" profile while simultaneously cutting a groove for the panel. Two-piece bits cost more but they're more convenient because you don't have to stop and rearrange the bit. They're also available in a wider choice of profiles.

Amana has developed a unique style of cope-and-stick set which works with the undersized plywood that is so common today. The new Instile & Rail System™ cope and stick bits use shims which allow you to adjust the groove width to the thickness of the plywood. Instile and Rail bits solve the annoying problem of panel rattle when using plywood door panels.



 

I just bought an Amana drawer lock router bit. I've never used one before. Do you have any set up instructions or helpful techniques?

-Craig G.

Lonnie replies:

Raised panel router bits are available with or without a back cutter. The back cutter ensures that the edge of the panel will precisely fit the groove in the frame, even if the panel is thicker than the standard panel thickness of 5/8". Panel cutters without a back cutter work well, too. But the setup is somewhat fussy; you must precisely adjust the height of the bit for a good fit in the frame groove.

Cope-and-stick bits allow you to quickly and easily make stile-and-rail doors for furniture and cabinets. There are two basic types, reversible and two-piece.

Reversible bits are an economical choice because you only need one bit to cut both the "cope" and the matching "stick". However, reversible bits require that you disassemble the bit and re-arrange the parts on the shank for the second cut. Also, the decorative "sticking" profiles on reversible bits are limited to symmetrical shapes that can be inverted to create both series of cuts. Reversible bits are not less precise than other types, they just require time to rearrange the parts.

As the name implies, two piece cope-and-stick sets come with two bits; one bit cuts the cope on the ends of the rails, the matching bit cuts the decorative "sticking" profile while simultaneously cutting a groove for the panel. Two-piece bits cost more but they're more convenient because you don't have to stop and rearrange the bit. They're also available in a wider choice of profiles.

Amana has developed a unique style of cope-and-stick set which works with the undersized plywood that is so common today. The new Instile & Rail System™ cope and stick bits use shims which allow you to adjust the groove width to the thickness of the plywood. Instile and Rail bits solve the annoying problem of panel rattle when using plywood door panels.



 

I have been making wooden screen doors and window screens as replacement in kind for older homes.  I have been using a Sommerfeld window sash set.  This set is an ogee stile and rail and requires a minimum wood thickness of 1-1/8\" as do most window sash sets.  I have been looking for a set that is a simple roundover and cove as this is the shape that one sees most on window screens and stile and rail screen doors.  Have not been able to find one.  Does Amana have such a set with a 1/2\" shank?

This is not the standard set for cabinet doors.  The joinery on screens and screen doors is mortise and tenon and the cope must fit under the tenon.

-Joe K.

Lonnie replies:

True mortise-and-tenon joinery adds considerably to the strength and longevity of doors and windows. And when
the work is part of a restoration for an older home, as you're working on, it is only appropriate that traditional mortise-&-tenon construction is used.

To create a true mortise-and-tenon cope-and-stick door frame with a 3/8" radius "thumbnail" or roundover I use three separate bits. For the greatest safety and accuracy it's best to use a table mounted router for all cuts.

Here are the steps:

1.First I lay out and cut the mortise and tenon. Remember to inset the mortise 3/8" to account for the reduction of material when the rabbet is shaped.

2.Next I cut the cope with bit no.53802. I use the miter gauge to guide the stock and the fence to limit the depth of cut. This bit will slip under the tenon to cut the cope on the upper shoulder.

3.The next step is to use roundover bit no. 49514 to route the decorative "sticking" profile on the inside edges of all the frame members.

4.The last step is to cut the rabbet for the screen. I use the Super Rabbet,bit no.49360, because the large mass and superior cutting angle provides a
a

View Illustration
 

I HAVE THE AMANA RAISED PANEL SET, BOTH Timberline® TRS-260 & Amana Tool® AMS-201 I HAD NO PROBLEM CUTTING THE STILES & RAILS. I WOULD LIKE TO NOW CUT THE TRADITIONAL RAISED PANEL INSERTS. I HAVE A SHOPSMITH WITH ALL THE ATTACHMENTS. THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP YOU MY GIVE ME!

Valley Stream , NY


Lonnie replies:

Whenever you shape raised panels with a router table there are some things to consider:

-Don't exceed the recommended RPM of the bit.
-Use only flat stock that is free of warp or twist
-Always feed the stock against the bit's rotation. Don't climb cut.
-Take several passes rather than one heavy pass
-Always use panel-raising bits in a table-mounted router. Never use in a hand-held router
-For the best results always shape the end-grain first followed by the long-grain
-Use a guard

 

I want to make raised panel doors using the trs-250 router bits.  Never done this before.  Any tips on making doors correct size?  They will vary in overall sizes.  Do I run stock through face down?  Should this be done in multiple passes or is it ok to do in single pass?

-Don C.
North Liberty, IA


Lonnie replies:

For an entertainment center I recommend that you use an overlay type door with a European hinge. Before starting the door construction process purchase the hinges. This way you can size the door to fit the requirements
for the hinge.

When constructing the door the stile-and-rail framework is milled first then the panel is sized to fit within the framework. To determine the overall size of the door measure the opening and add for the door overlap. Next, cut the stock for the frame to size. Stiles and rails for cabinet doors are typically 7/8" thick by two inches wide. It's best to cut the stiles an inch longer than the final size. This way you can trim them to final length after the door is assembled.

The length of the rails is most important; it determines the overall width of the door. To determine the rail length subtract the width of the stiles from the overall width of the door then add back the depth of the cope/panel groove. For example, if the door is 14" wide subtract 4" for the stiles then add 3/4" for the cope at the ends for a total length of 10-3/4".

With the stock milled to size you're ready to cut the joints. Remember, the bits are for use in a table-mounted router only. Start by shaping the cope at the end of the rails. Use a miter gauge to safely support the stock as you feed it past the bit. Next, shape the sticking/groove along the inside edges of both the stiles and rails. Remember to use a push stick to distance your hands from the bit.

After shaping, dry assemble the door and measure for the panel. To determine the panel size measure the opening in the frame and add 1/2" to both the length and width. This measurement allows the edges of the door to extend 1/4' into the frame groove. Remember, the groove is 3/8" deep. The extra space inside of the groove will allow the panel to expand during the humid summer months.

The panel is shaped face down. To shield your hands from the spinning bit I recommend the Panel-Loc barrier guard. Besides providing protection for yourhands it also works as a hold-down to keep the stock firmly against the table while routing. To avoid splintering the end grain of the panel shapethe ends first, then shape the edges. Depending on the hardness of the wood and the size of your router it will take three to five passes to reach the full profile depth. The panel edge should fit snug within the groove in the frame; this will prevent the panel from rattling when the door is opened.

View Illustration

 

 
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