Lonnie replies:

If buying a new bandsaw I would consider a 16" or 18" machine. When considering the purchase of a new bandsaw conventional wisdom implies that "bigger is better". And to an extent it's true; large bandsaws (20" or greater) have several advantages over their mid-sized competition: a larger throat (the distance from the blade to the column), greater horsepower (which can be a real advantage when resawing), a larger table for better support of the work, and an ability to accept wider blades.

However, large bandsaws (those over 18") can be quite expensive and a 16" or 18" saw may suit your needs just as well. Some of the 16" or 18" bandsaws will accept a 1" wide blade and perform extremely well when resawing. In fact, when equipped with a thin-kerf bandsaw blade some smaller saws will resaw as well as a much larger machine.

Lonnie replies:

Yellow and white wood glues will release with the application of water or heat. For example, recently, the edge-to-edge joint on my kitchen table top came apart as a result of continual exposure to the heat from a lap top computer. It was an easy fix; I just ripped the top apart along the seam and glued it back together (we since got a cooling pad for the lap top).

The tongue and groove joint that you're working may not be as easy to repair. Although heat and/or water will cause the glue to release, it must reach into the joint to be effective. Heating the surface enough to reach into the joint may damage the wood. Water will raise the grain and possibly warp the surface. Also, keep in mind that once you get the joint apart it is necessary to remove all traces of the old glue; fresh glue must penetrate into the pores of the wood to be effective. It may be easier and less time-consuming to construct a new door.

Lonnie replies:

You're right, crotch wood is more difficult to dry than ordinary straight grained lumber. No matter what type of wood I'm drying I prefer to purchase logs and saw the lumber during the late fall or winter when the sap is down in the tree. This way the boards do not have nearly as much moisture to lose and warpage and splitting is usually much less severe. But I'm not going to pass up an opportunity to purchase a log simply because the tree was cut down during the warmer months. If possible, I'll seal the ends of a log as soon as the tree hits the ground. Once started, small end checks can often develop into serious splitting.

I've had a lot of success by drying crotch wood slowly in an unheated barn. If crotch wood is stacked outdoors on stickers the stress of exposure to direct sunlight and rain may cause it to develop serious cracks and splits. Instead, by keeping it under shelter the stock is not as severely stressed as it slowly releases moisture. Also, I would avoid using a kiln. Instead, once the crotch wood has lost enough moisture to be in balance with the environment in the barn I bring it into my shop and allow it to reach equilibrium with the indoor air and humidity.

When drying a very special piece, such as a wide or highly figured plank of crotch wood, I'll watch for signs of warpage. If necessary I'll clamp cauls across the width of the board to keep it flat as it dries.

http://www.lonniebird.com/sawingcrotchwoodlog.htm

Lonnie replies:

Amana no.55430 is a stile & rail bit set with a outer diameter of 1-5/8". While these are somewhat tall bits they are not large in diameter and so it surprises me that the ring on your router table is too small to accommodate them. I hesitate to give you the OK on modifying your router table. Most router tables have two or three rings to accommodate several sizes of bits; for the largest bits the table is used without a ring. It sounds like your router table is too small for using many of today's larger bits. For your personal safety I suggest that you purchase a large router and router table to work with these bits.

Lonnie replies:

A 3hp shaper will allow you to shape large profiles, such as raised panels, in one pass. The increase in horsepower, combined with a power feeder, makes the shaper more of a production tool. But don't get rid of your router table. The small diameter of router bits allow shaping of tight contours where a shaper cannot. Also, you'll find a much larger selection of router bits than shaper cutters.

The stub spindle for the Delta shaper is no longer available but Amana Tool makes a complete selection of stub spindles and profiles for the router table such as no.47515 ogee cabinet bit. These bits will allow you to make tenons of any length.

A 3hp shaper has plenty of power for the average furniture or cabinet shop. While it's OK to bush a 1" cutterhead to fit a 3/4" spindle, I wouldn't use bushings to place a 1-1/4" bore cutter on a 1" spindle; the stresses are too great for the small spindle.

For flush trimming stock on the shaper I highly recommend the Amana Insert Spiral Jointing Cutter.

Finally, please keep in mind that the shaper is a very dangerous machine that requires complete understanding for safe use. Keep the cuts light, the guards in place and your hands a safe distance from the cutterhead.

Lonnie replies:

Woodworking machines can create a lot of dust which becomes airborne and settles on every available surface in your shop. Besides being a fire hazard it is a
health hazard as well. I have never tried the positive pressure units but I've heard that they work well. Of course any dust mask or respirator requires a snug fit against your face to achieve the full effectiveness. I doubt that these devices work as well with a beard.

Here are a few more suggestions which may help to minimize the hazard:

1. Start with a good dust collection system. The unit must have enough power to provide the necessary CFM at each machine. The ductwork must be designed
to minimize friction and reduce the CFM. Also, keep in mind that many dust collectors push the fine, hazardous dust back into the room. To be effective the filter must be fine enough to trap the smallest of the dust particles. And the filter will need cleaning often to prevent backpressure and a loss of CFM. Don't stop with just one dust hood at each machine. With machines that produce fine dust, I've had the most success at dust collection by using two hoods. On the tablesaw I have a second hood in the basket guard. On the bandsaw I have one hood in the cabinet and a second hood mounted under the table.

2. Trap the airborne duct with an air cleaner. No dust collection system will trap 100 percent of the dust at the source; some of the dust always manages to bypass the system. I have several air cleaners mounted in the ceiling of the shop which filter the shop air several times each hour.

3. Wear a dust mask or respirator. Although I don't wear a dust mask continually I have one that I use when the conditions become really dusty. Some tasks, such as sanding at the lathe or cleaning the filter on the dust collector, can be extremely dusty. However, some woodworkers wear a dust mask whenever they are in the shop.

Lonnie replies:

Of all the different brands and sizes of bandsaws that I've used over the years, I've never encountered a bandsaw with wheels of different diameters.
Perhaps you could have a machine shop turn the larger of the two wheels to match. It's important that there is enough thickness to the wheel casting;
you certainly do not want to weaken the wheel by reducing it in diameter. However, I suspect that because of the relatively minor difference in size
that this solution would work. Keep in mind that the wheel that is reduced in diameter will most likely need to be balanced afterwards.

Another solution may be to send the wheels away to a company which will mount new tires and turn them to matching diameters. Of course this is only a temporary solution at best. When the tires wear out this process will need to be repeated.

Keep in mind that once the wheels are corrected that they must also match the upper and lower blade guides.

The blade "flutter" could be caused by a bent blade or running the blade with insufficient tension. It is difficult to analyze without examining the
bandsaw firsthand.

Lonnie replies:

When I constructed the breadbox in the promotional photos I used tiger maple. I also used a traditional finish which adds depth as well as color. I've outlined the finishing steps under the "Finishing" portion of the Q&A column.

Lonnie replies:

Sanding a spiral table leg can be slow and tedious, especially if it is fastened to the table. Your most effective method is probably to sand it by hand. I suggest that you wrap the abrasive around a wood dowel or rubber sanding pad to reach any contours.

Lonnie replies:

Before operating an old woodworking machine, it's important to check the machine over thoroughly. For example, make certain that belts and pulleys are secure and that the spindle is not bent. Also, check the fence and guard to make certain that they lock firmly in place.

Although some shapers have a reversing switch to change the rotational direction of the spindle, most shaper spin in a counterclockwise direction when viewed from above. Of course you can easily check this by watching the spindle rotation as it slows to a stop. It's very important that the cutting surface of the shaper cutter faces in the direction of the spindle rotation.

Once you've determined the spindle rotation direction disconnect the machine from the power source before going further.

Many shapers have at least one insert ring which can be removed to accommodate large diameter cutters. Make certain that the cutter clears the insert ring and/or the table opening. If the cutter does not clear the opening, even after removing the insert ring, the cutter is too large for the machine and should not be used.

With the cutter in position on the spindle and facing the correct direction, secure the cutter with the spindle nut. In order to lock the nut firmly in place the shaper will either have a second wrench to hold the spindle, or the machine will have a spindle lock.

With the cutter in place it's very important to position a fence around the cutter and lock the fence in place. When correctly positioned, the fence will cover most of the cutter. Covering most of the cutter will create a lighter cut which is safer.

Once the fence is in place position a guard over the cutter. If the shaper did not come equipped with a guard then make one of your own. It's important
to cover the cutter and shield it from your hands.

For a full line of shaper cutters, including both brazed and insert, take a look at the Amana website.

Lonnie replies:

Although lumber that is dried in a kiln is usually dry and stable, it often has stress from having been dried too quickly. For example, sometimes lumber will bind and pinch the blade when ripped on a tablesaw. This is an example of drying stress that occurs when lumber is pushed too quickly through a kiln. Also, many kiln operators steam the lumber to hide the sapwood. The process of steaming spoils the color and gives each board a muddy appearance. However, when properly processed, kiln dried lumber is dry, stable and a pleasure to use.

These days, most of the wood that I use is lumber that I air dried myself. There are a number of reasons that many woodworkers opt to dry their own lumber. Air dried lumber has beautiful color, it is relatively stress free, and it is considerably less expensive than purchasing dry lumber from a dealer. However, there are trade-offs. For example, as you can imagine, air drying takes time; the rule-of-thumb is a year for each inch of thickness. So you won't be using the lumber any time soon. And the process of stacking lumber is very labor intensive.

Also, keep in mind that lumber which has been dried naturally outdoors or in a barn will not be dry enough for use in furniture and cabinets. Regardless of how long it dries, lumber dried outdoors will only be "in balance" with the outdoor humidity. In order to dry the lumber completely, I complete the drying process by bring the boards into my shop for a few weeks. In order to be certain that the lumber is completely dry, I check the moisture content with a moisture meter. Only when the meter reads somewhere between 6-8% is the lumber dry enough for indoor use.

If you'd like to try drying a few boards here are a few guidelines that I use:

1. Coat the ends of the boards with a commercial sealer. This helps limit end checking during drying.

2. Choose a dry spot for the lumber platform. Locating the platform in a damp area can cause mildew of even decay. It's also important to keep the stack shielded from the heat of the mid-day sun. The inside of a barn or under a large shade tree are ideal location. If the stack is located outdoors it's important to cover the stack with a top layer of inexpensive plywood to shield it from the sun and rain.

3. Construct a drying platform. I've attached a drawing to guide you. IT IS IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE PLATFORM LEVEL TO PREVENT IT FROM FALLING OVER. I begin with concrete blocks placed 24" on center. The blocks keep the lumber off the ground to prevent mildew and promote air circulation. 4x4's placed across the blocks support the lumber. As you stack the lumber keep the boards spaced at least an inch apart. Drying sticks placed between the boards keep the layers separated. It's important to use dry sticks. Green sticks can create mildew stain.

I've provide a brief overview of drying lumber. For in-depth information you can review the information on drying from the USDA Forest Products Lab. Here is the link: http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr118.pdf

Lonnie replies:

Your 1-1/2 HP router is capable of powering cabinet door bit sets such as Amana Tool no.55420. However, the motor lacks the power to shape door panels with a horizontal bit such as Amana no.54119. A better option is to use a vertical raised panel bit such as no.54524.

Lonnie replies:

Purchasing a kitchen full of cabinets can be expensive, especially those that are custom designed and constructed. However, to save money when building them yourself, it's important to watch your material costs and minimize waste. You can do this by carefully planning the construction process and shopping around to save costs on materials and hardware.

Building your own cabinets has other advantages in addition to reducing your costs. By building the cabinets yourself, you can customize the size, fit and design to suit your tastes and needs.

There are a number of methods used for constructing kitchen cabinets and the process is beyond the scope of this Q&A column. Building a kitchen full of cabinets is not difficult, but it is a large job. There are many doors and drawers even in a small kitchen and you'll need to construct the cabinets to fit appliances and the room itself. I suggest that you purchase a book on cabinet construction. A good book will provide illustrations and photos to generate ideas and get you started.

Amana sells many products for cabinetmaking including saw blades for sizing sheetstock, dovetail router bits for drawer construction and specialty bits for making doors. Once you've settled on a design we'll be glad to assist you with selecting the tools that you'll need.

Lonnie replies:

For making a decorative drum (rather than a musical drum) I suggest that you use a bendable plywood. There are a couple of brands that are readily available and I'm sure that an on-line search will reveal a source.

If you'd rather not use a bendable plywood then I suggest that you use solid wood and cut the kerfs across the grain. Cutting the kerfs with the grain will severely weaken the stock and it will most likely break when you attempt to bend it.

Use a combination blade such as the Amana Prestige no.PR1040 and cut each kerf through most of the stock thickness. Keep in mind that the closer you space the kerfs the more fluid the resulting curve will be; widely spaced kerfs will telegraph through the surface and make the curve appear segmented.

Lonnie replies:

Some bandsaws are equipped with two speeds so that you can cut a wider variety of materials. The higher speed of 3000 SFPM is for sawing wood and the slower speed is for sawing non-ferrous metals such as aluminum and brass.

Lonnie replies:

As a bandsaw is running the blade is flexed around the wheels hundreds of time each minute. A blade that is too thick for the wheel diameter will break prematurely as it is repeatedly flexed around a very small radius. In order to prevent continual blade breakage, I recommend that you stick to using the thinner blades. As you've probably noticed, the thin blades flex in the cut, but that is one of the limitations of a small bandsaw. You may want to consider purchasing a larger bandsaw, such as a 14" model.

Lonnie replies:

I use the Jessem MaserLift table together with the fence and leg set. The lift is built in to the phenolic top.

Lonnie replies:

Wood expands and contracts from summer to winter with changes in the relative humidity. As you've pointed out, it is a good idea to seal both faces of a board when finishing so that they will absorb and release moisture at equal rates. This helps to keep boards flat over the years. My own experience is that when both surfaces are not sealed the board has a much greater tendency to warp.

I suggest that you remove the solid oak top and seal the underside. Shellac works well as a sealer; it dries quickly and is easily sprayed, wiped or brushed.

Lonnie replies:

Although my shaper has both a 3/4" and a 1" spindle, I use the 3/4" spindle most often. As you've discovered, there is often a greater selection of 3/4" bore cutters available. But more importantly, as the bore size increases the outer diameter of the cutter usually increases as well.

Larger diameter cutters require a larger fence opening which does not provide as much stock support at the point of contact.

1-1/4" bore cutters are for large production type shapers. These machines are very powerful and it is best to limit their use to a power feeder.

The operating principles for table mounted routers and shapers are the same. I think that it is best to have both a table-mounted router and a shaper. I use the router for smaller cuts and as the size of the cut increases I step up to the shaper.

Authentic period furniture hardware is made using many of the same methods that were used in the 18th century. This ensures that the reproductions have the proportions, surface texture, and beauty of the originals (and sometimes a somewhat rough fit and finish).

For example, inferior pulls use heavy brass wire for the bails and the backplate is stamped from thick brass. This results in a clumsy facsimile that bears little resemblance to the originals.

In contrast, the backplate of an authentic pull is made from thin brass, just like the originals. The bail is cast so that the center of the bail is thicker than the ends.

As you've discovered, sometimes the bails will bind. This does not reflect poor craftsmanship but is just a result of using authentic methods of reproduction. If you would like for the bails to swing freely I suggest that you gently bend them inwards with a small amount of hand pressure. This shortens the length of the bail between the posts.

Also, you may find that the ends of the posts extend into the drawer and can snag or scratch the drawer contents. I cut the posts flush and scoop out a recess for the retaining nut with a carving gouge.

I'm not aware of a CAD program that is specifically  designed for furniture and cabinet design. However, I've been using AutoCAD Light for many years now and I'm sold on the program. The light version has everything that full-blown AutoCAD does but 3D and yet it is just a few hundred dollars (compared to thousands for the full version). You might also check into SketchUp which is a cad program which you can download for free.

Most computer aided drawing programs have a bit of a learning curve but the time is well-spent. Drawing with CAD is much faster and more accurate than by hand. And making design changes is a snap compared to using pencil and paper. 

Over the past twenty years the selection of router bits has tremendously expanded. There are many things that you can do today, such as shaping a raised panel, that once required a shaper.

However, the large bits require a large router to spin them. I suggest that you use a vertical raised panel bit - Amana Tool no.54524, or you invest in a large router. Running a horizontal router bit in a 2-1/4 HP router will push it beyond it's limits

I doubt that Sears made an adapter for that machine but I suggest that you go to Sears and ask. Even so, you'll find that the shaper runs too slow for all but the largest diameter router bits. As a rule-of-thumb, shapers spin at 10,000 RPM and the RPM of most routers is 10,000 to 21,000. Although it works to spin small router bits in a shaper, you'll need to dramatically slow the rate at which you feed the work past the bit. I suggest that you purchase a large, variable speed router and mount it in a table. 

Large diameter bits have a higher rim speed than small diameter bits when run at the same RPM. Running any router bit at speeds beyond the manufacturer's suggested RPM is a risk to your personal safety. The fact is, to safely use many of today's large diameter router bits you'll need a powerful variable speed router and a router table.

The good news is that there is a wider assortment of router bits than ever before. In fact, these days you can make many cuts with your router, such as raised panels, that once required a large, expensive shaper.

Drawing an ellipse is just a step beyond drawing a circle. To draw a large diameter circle I use a pair of trammels clamped to a stick.
To draw an ellipse I use a third trammel. When drawing a circle one point remains in a fixed position at the center of a circle. However, when drawing an ellipse all three trammel points move; two points move along the edge of a large square object, such as a framing square or sheet of plywood while the third point draws the ellipse.

Begin by positioning the trammels on the stick. The trammel with a pencil is positioned at one end. The remaining two trammels are positioned at a distance from the first equal to the major and minor axis of the ellipse. Now you're ready to draw the ellipse.

Two of the trammels are guided by a ninety degree object, such as a framing square. Clamp the square securely to the bench top so that it remains in a fixed position. As you guide the two points along the edge of the square, the third point will draw one-quarter of the ellipse.

View Illustration

When making multiple passes with a straight bit it is typical to see slight variations in groove depth. There are a number of factors that contribute to this. For example, a router table top that is not flat, a router base that is not perfectly flat, deflection of the workpiece or slight unevenness in the stock being routed can all create minor variations in cutting depth. In fact, variations of as much as .003" to .004" in adjacent grooves are not unusual when hand routing. Greater precision would require a computer controlled router (CNC).

If you're experiencing more than .003" or .004" variation it could be caused by debris between the workpiece and the registration surface. Try using dust collection and sweeping the top of the router table between cuts.

All the woods that I've used in woodworking change color with time and exposure to sunlight. For example, in just twelve months cherry changes from a pink salmon color to a deep, rich reddish brown. Walnut starts out with a dark chocolate brown color and lightens with more reddish and yellow tones. Although I've never worked with red gum I suspect that it changes, too. As a
rule-of-thumb light woods such as maple darken with time and dark woods become lighter.

When color matching new wood to match aged wood I use aniline dyes. I'll usually start out by bleaching a dark wood, such as walnut, with two-part wood bleach to provide a more neutral base for the dye. You can find wood bleach at most paint and hardware stores. After bleaching I apply the dye and then a top coat. Dyes are available in dozens of shades and I just
experiment on offcuts to find a color that matches the aged wood as closely as possible.

Unfinished wood can warp dramatically when it is exposed to changes in relative humidity. The warp may occur over a period of weeks or just a couple of days. To prevent stock from warping here are the steps that I take:

1. I use wood that is in equilibrium with the environment in which it will be placed. In other words, I use dry wood. For  furniture and cabinets that will be used indoors in a controlled environment (forty percent relative humidity) seven percent moisture content is ideal. If the moisture content is too high the wood will release moisture and warp.
  
2. I mill the stock only when I'm ready to use it. For example, when making paneled doors I don't mill the panel until I've constructed the frame. Once I flatten the panel stock and plane it to thickness I immediately fit it into the door frame. The framework will help to keep the panel from warping.


3. I apply finish to the work as soon as possible. Finishes don't stop moisture exchange but they slow it down dramatically. And remember, it is important to apply finish to both sides. If one side is left unfinished it will absorb moisture at a faster rate and cause warping.

These are solid guidelines that I use when working with wood. However, sometimes things don't always go as planned. For example, years ago I was constructing a dining table for our kitchen. The figure in the wide tiger maple boards popped as I applied the finish. In my excitement I neglected the underside of the table top. That night the relative humidity changed dramatically as a storm passed through the area. When I entered the shop the next morning the top had severely cupped despite the large breadboard ends. To correct the problem I placed the top outdoors in direct sunlight with the unfinished convex side facing up. After about forty-five minutes in the bright sunlight the top had dried out and it was flat once again. I quickly sealed the surface with a couple of coats of finish. Years later it is still flat.

I suggest that you try a similar remedy by applying moisture to the concave side while applying heat to the convex side.

Undoubtedly the best way to add versatility and an extra margin of safety to your router is to mount it in a table. Mounted in a table the router becomes a small shaper capable of shaping large moldings, cutting complex joints and even raising panels, a task that was once limited to a shaper. In fact, Amana makes many router bits, such as no.54117 that can be used only in a table-mounted router. So adding a router table to your shop opens up a number of shaping and routing possibilities.

In the past few years, router tables have become so popular that there are now a number of companies marketing tables, fences, stands, lifts, power switches and other accessories. In fact, you can now spend more on a router table than you would on some shapers. But it's not necessary to spend your entire woodworking budget to get a good table. 

Here's what I suggest: purchase a sturdy top and build the stand yourself. This way you can customize the stand to suit your needs, budget, and height. When shopping for a top, look for one that will allow you to add a lift later on if you desire. Although a lift is not necessary, it makes setting up for any routing task faster and more precise.

Of course you can also make the top. In my latest book, The Complete Illustrated Guide To Routers, I show how to construct a sturdy top for just a few dollars. The bottom line is that you don't have to spend a fortune to get started.

I suggest that you first start with a table mounted router. Later on, if you feel that you need a shaper then add that to your shop but keep the router. Let me explain.

A table mounted router and a shaper are very similar in the way they function and even many of the set-ups are the same. The main advantage to a shaper is size; shapers simply have more power. This is true even if the horsepower ratings are the same. That's because routers are equipped with universal motors and shapers are powered by induction motors. Universal motors are rated by peak H.P. while induction motors are rated by continuous H.P. In other words, a three horsepower universal motor will provide three horsepower for a few seconds before it overheats and shuts off while a three horsepower induction motor will provide three horsepower non-stop.

Although the power of a shaper is an advantage in a production setting the average woodworker can create the same large profiles with a router by taking several light passes rather than one heavy pass. Besides, routers have several advantages over a shaper.

The main advantage is that there are many more profiles available for a router which give it much more versatility. In fact, here at Amana we're continually adding new profiles such as Amana Tool no.49555 table edge and the EZ-Dial that are not available in a shaper cutter. As another example, just a few years ago, if you wanted to shape panels for doors you needed a shaper. However, today there are a wide assortment of router bits available for panel raising such as Amana Tool no.54117 . And generally speaking, router bits are less expensive than shaper cutters, too.

Another advantage of routers is that bits are available which shape on the end. Grooves, core box, and vees are all cuts that come to mind.

Finally, the small diameter of router bits enable routers to shape into tight curves where a shaper simply can't reach. This is a big advantage when shaping many of the details found on fine furniture.

When constructing a router table I suggest that you purchase a top along with a lift and then make a cabinet to support it. Commercial tops typically come equipped with a miter gauge slot, insert rings, and a fence, all features that are difficult and time-consuming to make on your own. Lifts, although somewhat expensive, allow you to make height adjustments as fine as .001" without having to struggle to reach under the table. However, the best base is one that you make yourself. This way you can customize it for your height and incorporate storage areas for your bits and router accessories.

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When replacing worn or broken pulleys on woodworking machinery it's important to use a replacement pulley that matches the original. For your personal safety you should never exceed the manufacturer's recommended RPM for a sawblade, router bit, shaper cutter or other cutting tool.

Thanks for your compliments on the clock. There are several specialty lumber dealers that have wide, figured stock. Students that attend classes here at my school purchase their lumber from Good Hope Hardwoods
610-274-8842. Ask for Skip.

One of the most important shop accessories is a sturdy workbench. As you plane, pare, route, chop and saw the work you need a solid bench that will resist the pushing, racking and pounding. Of course there are many styles of workbenches to choose from but the best bench is one that you make yourself. The design does not have to be elaborate, in fact, my own bench is quite simple. It's most important that the bench is heavy, well-constructed, and has a few simple devices, such as a vise, an assortment of clamps, and bench hooks, with which you can secure the work.

A good size for the top of a bench is two by eight feet. No matter if your carving a bedpost or cutting dovetails for a chest these dimensions will allow you to position the workpiece on the bench for support and easy access.

Unfortunately, there is no perfect height for a workbench. When carving you'll want the work higher or your back will become tired from hours of bending. In contrast, hand planing requires a lower stance so that you can power the plane with your upper body. Here's a good rule-of-thumb that I use: as you stand next to the bench with your arms extended the top of the bench should be positioned at your wrist.

Another option is to construct a stand or small "bench" which fits in the vise of the main bench. This can be used to support certain types of work, such as small carvings, at a higher level. If your shop has the floor space consider building two benches at different heights.