Wood Finishing |
| Woodworking Tips and Techniques by Lonnie Bird |
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| End Table |
I took your Woodworking Essentials class last summer and it was great! I thought the size and pace of the class, and the project, was just right. I
really appreciated how much time you spent with us individually. You even managed to take our "errors" and put them in the "save" category, and
usually turned them into good teaching examples of how to fix things that go wrong.
I love the table we made in the class. Mine is walnut. I'd really like to try putting string inlay around the drawer front and around the top, somewhat like a basic Federal inspired piece. Do you think the inlay would fit with the design of this table? If so, what size stringing should I use, and how far in from the edges would you place it?
Would cherry be a light enough wood for the inlay, or should I use maple to make it stand out more? I was thinking of using cherry inlay, with a matching cherry knob for the drawer. Would that work for this style, or should I use a metal knob if I'm going with a "Federal" look?
Lastly, I'm planning on using Formby's Tung Oil Finish (which is really an oil/varnish blend, I believe) on the piece. If I use cherry or maple inlay, can I finish the piece with just the Formby's Tung Oil Finish?
Thanks again for a great experience in your class, and your help with my questions here.
- Todd M.
Ashburn, VA
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Lonnie
replies:
I'm certainly glad to hear that you enjoyed the class and I'm looking forward to working with you again.
The string inlay on the table is a great way to add detail and fits perfectly with this style of table. I suggest that you use maple rather than cherry for the stringing. As the wood in the table oxidizes with age and exposure to sunlight the walnut will become lighter and the cherry will darken. After a few years you will have difficulty seeing the contrast of the stringing. Although maple also darkens somewhat with age, it will not darken as much as the cherry.
A wiping varnish such as the brand that you've mentioned is easy to apply and with two or three coats will provide good durability as well.
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| 18th century dressing table |
In your dressing table class this past August you told us how you like to finish cherry. It seems I have lost my notes and hope you can refresh my failing memory.
- James C.
Evanston, IL
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Lonnie
replies:
Cherry begins as a pink salmon colored wood and darkens with time and exposure to light. After just twelve months it will have a rich, deep reddish-brown color. Any amber colored top-coat such as shellac or oil-based varnish will enhance the warm color of cherry.
If you'd prefer not to wait you can darken cherry with a light coat of aniline dye. The dye will also help to even out variations in the shade of the wood. However, be aware that cherry can easily appear blotchy when colored with a stain or dye. So I recommend that you use a very light "wash" coat of dye. A red maple dye is pleasing but it's always best to experiment with colors before applying the product to the actual piece of furniture. Also, keep in mind that the cherry will continue to darken after the finish is applied.
Here are the steps that I use:
1. Smooth the flat surfaces with a plane and then sand the wood to 220 grit. Although the planed surfaces will not be improved by sanding, all surfaces must have the same texture in order to absorb the dye at the same rate. And curved surfaces such as moldings cannot be planed.
2. Dampen all the surfaces with clear water to raise the grain. Allow to dry
3. Sand the surfaces lightly with worn 220 grit to remove the fuzzy texture.
4. Apply a light coat of water-based aniline dye.
5. Apply several coats of amber shellac
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| The Finish on the Breadbox |
I used the Amana tambour bits to make the tambour slats and I have completed the breadbox. Could you tell me the steps to the finish that you used?
Thank you.
- Charles G.
Mercersburg, PA
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Lonnie
replies:
I'm glad to hear that you like the maple finish on the breadbox. It is finished with a water-based dye stain to bring out the figure in the grain.
The process is not complicated but it requires several days so that each layer of finish can dry overnight. Here are the steps:
1. Sand the wood surface smooth with 220 grit.
2. Dampen the surface with water to raise the grain. Allow to dry.
3. Sand lightly with worn 220 grit to remove the fuzzy surface. This will prevent the dye from raising the grain and creating a rough surface under the finish.
4. Apply a red maple water-based dye stain. Mix the dye and test it on a sample to ensure that you like the shade.
5. Apply a coat of wiping varnish. The oil-based wiping varnish will penetrate the wood surface and add depth to the finish.
6. Apply several coats of amber shellac. The shellac warms the color of the finish and is easily rubbed out to a satin sheen. A one-pound cut(one pound of shellac flakes to one gallon of alcohol) is easiest to apply. The shellac can be sprayed, brushed, or wiped on with a finishing cloth. For a smooth finish, it is best to rub each coat with 0000 steel wool.
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| Walnut Clock |
On a question about finishing walnut, you said to bleach the finished project and stain with red maple stain and finish or seal with shellac.
Question 1 -- What brand of red maple stain/dye did you use?
Question 2 -- Did you use a tinted shellac and if so what tint, amber, buttonlac or---?
Thank you sincerely for your help.
- Charles M.
Fayetteville, TN
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Lonnie
replies:
As walnut ages it becomes lighter and somewhat red in appearance. You can artificially age the wood by bleaching followed by a red maple aniline dye. I use Moser water-based dye and follow up with several coats of amber shellac. As with any new finish I suggest that you experiment on some off cuts until you're sure that you like the color.
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| Aniline Dye |
I used alcohol-based aniline dye under a shellac finish. When I applied the shellac the dye became streaked and muddy in appearance. What went wrong and how can I correct it.
- Gary B.
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Lonnie
replies:
The dye was dissolved by the application of the shellac. Most dye is available in a powder form and must be dissolved before use. Dyes are available for mixing with water, oil, or alcohol. When making your selection use a dye that will not be dissolved by the solvent in the top coat. For example, when using shellac, I use a water-based dye to color the wood. Otherwise the alcohol in the shellac will affect the dye.
To repair the problem I suggest that you strip away the shellac and dye with alcohol and 0000 steel wool. Remember to use plenty of ventilation to avoid breathing the fumes from the denatured alcohol. |
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| Desk |
Hi Lonnie I was very fortunate to come across your FWW article where you built some "Tombstone Doors" for a 18th century secretary. It was part of a three-part series on the secretary and as usual I enjoyed it thoroughly. The detail of the work was amazing and the crotch walnut panels were beautiful.
I am wondering if I could ask a question on what stain and finish you used on the walnut to get that rich reddish/brown tone? I am looking at building a desk out of walnut and as far as I can see your article did not touch on the finishing aspects of the piece.
If it is not too much trouble I would greatly appreciate it.
- Bruce M.
Ottawa, ON
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Lonnie
replies:
As walnut ages the color lightens and takes on more reddish undertones. You can simulate this affect by first bleaching the wood and then applying a red maple dye.
You can find wood bleach at most any paint or hardware store. Just follow the directions on the package. Afterwards, sand the wood lightly to remove the "fuzzies". Then apply a wash coat of dye followed by several coats of amber shellac.
Of course, as with any finishing process that is new to you, it is best to experiment first on some offcuts. |
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