Drying Pecan wood

What is the best way to dry pecan wood, air or kiln dry?  Do the ends need to be coated and with what? If air dried, can the wood be exposed to the elements?  Can you recommend a good reference in general to the subject of drying wood?


-Paul 

Marietta, GA

Our Expert

Although lumber that is dried in a kiln is usually dry and stable, it often has stress from having been dried too quickly. For example, sometimes lumber will bind and pinch the blade when ripped on a tablesaw. This is an example of drying stress that occurs when lumber is pushed too quickly through a kiln. Also, many kiln operators steam the lumber to hide the sapwood. The process of steaming spoils the color and gives each board a muddy appearance. However, when properly processed, kiln dried lumber is dry, stable and a pleasure to use.

These days, most of the wood that I use is lumber that I air dried myself. There are a number of reasons that many woodworkers opt to dry their own lumber. Air dried lumber has beautiful color, it is relatively stress free, and it is considerably less expensive than purchasing dry lumber from a dealer. However, there are trade-offs. For example, as you can imagine, air drying takes time; the rule-of-thumb is a year for each inch of thickness. So you won't be using the lumber any time soon. And the process of stacking lumber is very labor intensive.

Also, keep in mind that lumber which has been dried naturally outdoors or in a barn will not be dry enough for use in furniture and cabinets. Regardless of how long it dries, lumber dried outdoors will only be "in balance" with the outdoor humidity. In order to dry the lumber completely, I complete the drying process by bring the boards into my shop for a few weeks. In order to be certain that the lumber is completely dry, I check the moisture content with a moisture meter. Only when the meter reads somewhere between 6-8% is the lumber dry enough for indoor use.

 

If you'd like to try drying a few boards here are a few guidelines that I use:



1. Coat the ends of the boards with a commercial sealer. This helps limit end checking during drying.

2. Choose a dry spot for the lumber platform. Locating the platform in a damp area can cause mildew of even decay. It's also important to keep the stack shielded from the heat of the mid-day sun. The inside of a barn or under a large shade tree are ideal location. If the stack is located outdoors it's important to cover the stack with a top layer of inexpensive plywood to shield it from the sun and rain.

3. Construct a drying platform. I've attached a drawing to guide you. IT IS IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE PLATFORM LEVEL TO PREVENT IT FROM FALLING OVER. I begin with concrete blocks placed 24" on center. The blocks keep the lumber off the ground to prevent mildew and promote air circulation. 4x4's placed across the blocks support the lumber. As you stack the lumber keep the boards spaced at least an inch apart. Drying sticks placed between the boards keep the layers separated. It's important to use dry sticks. Green sticks can create mildew stain.

I've provide a brief overview of drying lumber. For in-depth information you can review the information on drying from the USDA Forest Products Lab. 

 

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