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Yes, start with a 0.032” depth of cut per pass to get a feel for the material.
Please click on the link below to all the solid surface bits on our website. To may then scroll to see the profile best suited to your needs. When reviewing a bit if you scroll down you will find all the other sizes in the particular style you are looking. Certain bits might only have one bit but many have multiple sizes. https://www.amanatool.com/products/router-bits/solid-surface-router-bits.html
Please check our web site and you will see that the information you requested is now posted under the part number RC-2250. You might have to sign into your account or create one if you don’t already have one.
I would recommend a starting RPM of 2,300 and a feed rate of 27” per minute. A minimum quality lubricant (fine mist) would work well. Please adjust your speed and or feed rate accordingly to prevent buildup of material.
Please put the part number of the tool in the search box. When the tool comes up, scroll down and click on the tab that says DXF File. You will have to sign in and then you will be able to down load the file.
Thank you for your inquiry. Please contact the Technical department at Amana to discuss you’re application.
Hi, Can you please recommend a router bit for levelling wood slabs. Would it be either of the RC-2251, or the RC-2257 ? What is the difference ? Thank you, Marc
Do you guys have the tools saved for Vcarve or Aspire already for the In-Groove CNC Insert bits? I see the DXF files, but instead of having to go through and program each one, thought you might already have them set up? Thanks!
I just wanted to let you know how much my father, 86 year old carpenter and myself enjoy your books and articles.
Would you please advise us on a safe way (router or dado) on how to make the recessed handholds for our homemade bee supers and hive bodies. Thank you and have a Happy New Year!
Amana makes a selection of elongated core box bits and the 1" diameter, Amana Tool no.45942, would be a good choice for a handhold on bee hives. The elongated core box bits make a straight-sided groove with a curved bottom.
The elongated core box bits which are larger than 1" diameter require a table-mounted router for safe use. However, the 1" diameter can be safely used in a hand-held router and two overlapping passes of the 1" diameter should make a comfortable handhold.
Because this is a stop cut you'll need to use a plunge router. Also, you'll need a guide bushing on the router sub-base to guide the cut against a template which is fixed to the work piece.
Finally, keep in mind that on the second, overlapping pass, that the bit will only be cutting on one side. It's critical to feed against the bit rotation to avoid climb-cutting and self-feeding.
And thanks for the compliments on my books and articles; it's always good to hear that woodworkers are enjoying them.
Thank you for the question.
To give you the correct answer, please provide the material you are cutting.
What particular specifications/items are you looking for?
What CNC router bit would you recommend to cut an 8mm hole in TRESPA compact laminate? According to the material spec. a "carbide or diamond tipped cutter without inclined shaft" is required. The CNC router bits that I use for hardwoods don't seem to be able to penetrate the TRESPA at all.
Thanks in advance,
Thank you for the inquiry.
Please look at our SKU# 46090 found on the following page:
I just purchased the Aman AMS-209 8 Piece In-Groove engraving tool. I need to add that tool to my CNC database. Where can I find the appropriate tool information?
Thanks for your inquiry. This is a good question.
The Amana 610504 was the first do-all traditional type combination blade made. The tooth geometry is made up of 1 flat top(raker) tooth and 4 alternate top bevel teeth in groupings of five. The large gullets at the raker tooth allow for deep cuts with improved chip ejection. It was a great choice for the woodworker that wanted a blade to rip and crosscut. This way they wouldn’t have to change the blade whenever they changed the direction of the cut.
The Amana PR1040 is a new and improved version and an excellent choice for a general purpose blade for both solid wood and man-made materials. It has a massive 0.102” plate thickness with expansion slots and copper plugs that practically eliminate vibration. The 40 teeth are ground with a steep 20 degree bevel angle with an ATB grind for crisp clean cuts both across and with the grain. The 18 degree hook angle yields an effortless feed.
Both blade are very good at what they do. I personally use the PR1040 for my all-purpose blade.
I'm looking for a 1/2" shank router bit for "Base Shoe". It is not a 1/2" round over.
Do you have stockists based in UK? I'm a volunteer at a herritage steam railway and we're current restoring a Victortain carriage. One of the tasks we have to do is manufacture new wooden window mouldings which will hold the windows in place. To do this we've been hunting for a router cutter which is a match or at least very close to the shape of the only original moulding we still from the carriage. Your cutter 57246 appears to be a very close match to the shape we are looking for. So my question is do you have stockists based in the UK who we could order the cutter from.
Thank you for the inquiry.
We don't have any stockists in the UK at this time, but perhaps one of our dealers here in the US can ship to the UK.
I am working on a hand railing that consists of steel posts with an 2x4 ipe top rail. On the top of each vertical post is a horizontal plate 3.5 in x 2.0 in x 0.17 in thick. The top rail is screwed to these plates. In order for these plates to be flush with the bottom of the wood; 0.17 in. of the wood will need to be removed so the plate can recess into the top rail.
I was provided a 1/4 in thick plywood template to do these recesses. The template is the same size as the needed recess. The corners are 1/2 in radius. The problem I am having is finding the right router bit to do this task. A top bearing flush trim bit seems like the right choice, but all of the ones I have found will make the recess far to deep. I only need to remove 0.17 inches wood.
To uses a collar and straight bit would the template need to oversized due to the clearance gap between the collar and bit?
You will not find a straight bit with a shank mounted bearing that cuts exactly .17 inches deep; this is a bit that you
would need to have custom made. Because custom made bits are very expensive I suggest that you use a guide bushing on the base of the router along with a straight bit such as Amana Tool no.45419. You'll need to create a template that accounts for the offset between the bit diameter and the bushing diameter.
For a number of years I have made children's blocks in various sizes and shapes. However, I've always struggled with the precision of the cuts, primarily the angles. As a perfectionist, I am looking for incredibly precise 90 degree angles, but have found that my well-tuned table saw, along with many different jigs, just hasn't met my standard. Am I using the wrong tool? Should I use a bandsaw, router, or planer? I appreciate any suggestions. Thank you!
I make most ninety degree cuts on the tablesaw with an Amana Prestige saw blade #PR1040. As you've already discovered, a well-tuned tablesaw is key. I test the angle of the blade by cutting two pieces of stock and positioning them to test the angle. In other words, to test a forty-five degree angle I miter two pieces of stock and position them within a square. If the joint is not ninety the resulting gap is twice the error. To test a ninety degree angle I simply cut two pieces and position them end-to-end on a straight edge.
I'd like to construct a router jig for making a dished top. Can you provide a drawing of a jig similar to the one in your book "The Complete Illustrated Guide To Shaping Wood"?
The jig is a set of plywood rails to support the router which is suspended over the circular tabletop. The entire jig is constructed of 3/4" plywood; each rail is constructed of two strips of plywood to form an "L" shape for stiffness under the weight of the router. The base of the jig has a large round opening which accepts a hub. The hub is glued to the underside of the top and works as a pivot for rotating the top. I've provided a drawing of the jig to help you visualize it further. Here are some other things to keep in mind as you construct the jig:
-- It is important to size the jig to fit your brand of router and the diameter of the top which you are making
-- Attach a square baseplate to your router
-- Clamp the jig to the top of your workbench
-- Always clamp the router firmly in place in the jig before pivoting the top
-- Take light cuts
Recommended Router Bits for this project
|Mortising Router Bit Tool No. 45505|
|Core Box Router Bit Tool No. 45904|
|Round Over Router Bit Tool No. 49701|
, you've helped me before on doing an octagon tapered leg and I appreciate that. My question has to do with shapers (I have your Shaper book!), I own an older 1/2" spindle Rockwell that I've used for years. In your opinion, is it safe to run a panel raising bit on it that measures around 4" in diameter? Of course I'd make the proper safety guards and hold downs but there's something about a bit that large spinning that makes me cautious! I have done it but am wondering if it's something you'd recommend. Thanks, you can see my work at www.woodworksbyjohn.com if you'd like.
Las Vegas, Nevada
The Amana Tool raised panel shaper cutter no.SC652 has a 3/4" bore and is supplied with a bushing for use on 1/2" spindle machines.
With any machine operation, especially the shaper, it's important that you feel safe before
operating the machine. In other words, if it does not feel safe to you, don't try it.
First and foremost, with any shaper operation it is important that the cutterhead is covered by a guard. If your shaper did not come equipped with
a guard then you should purchase one or construct one.
Page 94 of my book on the shaper shows a photo of a "box" style fence and guard which completely encloses raised panel cutterheads and provides a 3/4" thick barrier between the cutterhead and your hands. Also, with a factory fence a large opening is required to accommodate the large diameter of the cutterhead. In contrast, the box fence uses a very small opening which provides better support to prevent the workpiece from dropping into the cutterhead and kicking back.
The front of the box can be adjusted vertically to allow for panels of different thicknesses, the top of the box is clear acrylic,
and the back has a dust port. The box fence is secured to the top of the shaper with a large C-clamp at each end of the base.
Finally, a 1/2" spindle shaper has a smaller motor and less horsepower than a machine with a 3/4" spindle.
So when using a large panel raising cutterhead it becomes necessary to take additional passes and lighter cuts.