Having made my first crown molding on a solid oak bookcase, I was confronted with the gluing from both outside as inside corners.
1. is there a handy tip for clamping the corners of a high profiled molding ( the height of mine is 12 c/m (4,5 inch) at a 56 degree angle.
2. could you give me a clue on how to install a top on the case so that it will be flat with the top of the molding. (to be able to put some vases for decoration on top). as far as I know it's not being described in joinery or construction books.
-Ton W.
Siddeburen, Netherlands
Our Expert
There are two methods for attaching crown molding to the top of a chest or bookcase so that the top is attractive and functional. They each depend on a different type of crown molding. Furniture crown molding can be triangular, or flat like an architectural crown.
If the molding is triangular it is mitered and applied to the case after the case is assembled. The top of the molding is flush to the top of the case and the case dovetails are exposed.
If flat crown molding is used it is mitered and attached underneath the top. The top overhangs the molding and, visually speaking, it becomes a part of the crown. To fully create the effect the edge of the top is shaped with an ogee or other simple profile.
With either method it is not necessary to clamp the crown molding. Instead, I simply apply glue to the back of the molding and the miter joint and hold them into position for a minute until the glue sets. Ordinary yellow glue grabs and sets quickly so it is a good choice for this type of application.
If the sides of the case are solid wood you'll have to allow them to expand and contract seasonally. I do this by applying glue to the molding only for the first couple of inches beginning at the miter. At the opposite end of the molding I insert a screw from inside the case to hold the molding. Remember to slot the screw hole in the side of the case; this will allow the case side to expand and contract seasonally without splitting.
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