Saw Blades, Router Bits & Shapers

Ceiling Beams?

I have a low ceiling that I am adding box beams made from reused 100 year old CVG Fir. The beams are only about 2-3/4" tall. The ceiling is sloped and low on one side so taller beams were not a good option. I want to create a traditional profile crown molding approximately 1" tall but I am not able to find a single bit that small to produce it and the cost of having it milled is prohibitive. Is there a combination of bits I can use to create this? The cove is easy but the other profile is the one I am challenged with. Thanks a ton


Ft Collins, CO

Our Expert

Crown molding can take on a number of shapes. The most common is an ogee, or S-curve, flanked by smaller profiles such as roundovers and coves. 1" is a small space to create a detailed crown molding. My suggestion is to use the Amana no.54198 Multi-Form bit. As you can see, this bit creates a number of attractive profiles that will fit in a 1" space.

Desk top microphone sound booth?

I'm constructing an open octagon shape in which 5 sections of the octagon are being used. I have 22 1/2 degree angles so that my boards form the correct shape. Think of rectangles standing vertically and the long edges have the 22 1/2 degree angles.

Is there a way to make the joining surfaces mechanically secure by using a glue joint bit or a spline or biscuit? I can't figure out how to position the boards to achieve this.

Is there a way to make the joining surfaces mechanically secure by using a glue joint bit or a spline or biscuit? I can't figure out how to position the boards to achieve this.

- Mayo

South Elgin, IL111

Our Expert

Keeping 22.5 degree joints in alignment during gluing used to require a spline. And even with a spline the job was challenging because the splines added parts to the entire assembly.

A much easier solution is to use a bird's mouth joint. One half of the joint is square and the mating half is a "V" shape. The joint is very strong and, best of all, it is self-aligning. 

Amana Tool makes several router bits for bird's mouth joints including tool number 54270 which creates a 22.5.

Building a custom cabinet?

I want to route a half round edge on a 1/2" thick board with corners that have a 1" radius. I can use a 1/4" roundover router bit on both the top and bottom sides of the straight edges of the board using a fence on my router table. I can also route one side of the radiused corner of the board using the bit alone with the bearing running on the unrouted edge, but when the board is turned over to route the other side of the curved corner there is no unrouted edge for the bearing to run on and a fence does no good. HELP PLEASE. How do I do it?

- Charles
Knoxville, TN

Our Expert

The key is to use a template. Shape the template to the desired profile and attach it to the workpiece with double-sided tape. Use Amana Tool no.49504 1/4" radius Corner Rounding Bit and fit it with no.49405 guide bearing and no.47724 retaining collar.

When making the pattern, reduce the radius of the corner by 1/4" to compensate for the difference between the cutting radius of the bit and the diameter of the guide bearing.

Hoosier Hutch, Tambour Door?

Hi Mr. Bird, I'm a hobby woodworker and recently ordered your tambour router bit set. I am building Indiana Hoosier Hutch, and didn't want to used the fabric backed tambours. I tried your tambour bit set, and on my test set, the ball and socket fit very well.

When I ran the pieces for the actual project, and found that the ball socket was pretty loose, allowing the slats to come apart will little force. My theory, and I hope you can confirm this is that I may have shaved a little to close on the shaping of the stock. It seems to me that the fit of the ball and socket is determined by the router bit, and that the socket bit is always the same.

I wonder if I can increase ball size by moving bit "away" from the stock, slightly of course, but hoping that this will increase the ball size for a tighter fit.
Hope this question makes sense.

Douglas, GA

Our Expert

Yes, you have the right idea. Just position the bit further into the fence opening to reduce the cut. This will make the ball larger.

Prayer Kneeler?

Is there a bullnose router bit made by Amana with a bearing on it that I can use to follow a curved pattern/template?


Pickerington, OH

Our Expert

Yes, Amana makes eight sizes of bullnose bits with guide bearings from the no.51565 5/64" radius to the large no.51576 5/8" radius.

CNC router carvings?

I would like to create detailed carvings with a CNC router. Can you suggest a bit that will create fine details? 

I hope to be able to create some master pieces like these i do understand the smaller the tip is more detail i will get.the one I am using now is 1/8 shank two fluke end mill, on a piece of hard wood oak, they say ball nose is best to use. they break easy if feed rate is more than 10 . this will take more than 8 hrs., and i can only go a depth of 1/8 without breaking. any thing smaller than 1/8 will break. feedrate of 20 takes only 2 hrs to do. can you reccomendf me a bit that will give me a good speedrate without breaking.

Ocala, FL

Our Expert

I recommend the Amana AMS-210 In-Groove eight piece set. This solid carbideset is designed specifically for CNC routers. With seven included insert cutters you can always find the profile that you'll need for fine detailed work. The In-Groove system features over 30 different sizes and profiles.

Torchmate CNC Routing system?

We will be working with wood doing mostly sign work including 3D lettering and and some picture applications. What would you suggest as a set of core bits and accessories to handle these jobs?


Clyde, TX

Our Expert

Amana has just what you need, the #AMS-209 set. This 8-piece set includes a tool body and seven different profiles. The industrial quality carbide inserts produce crisp, clean cuts in a wide variety of materials from laminates and plastics to fragile veneers. The V-tip inserts can even cut aluminum.

Cupboard doors?

Would like to know if the bits No. 55340 and 55341 Ogee Window Sash and Rail Router Bits are suitable for doors or cabinets?


Bahia Blanca - Argentina

Our Expert

The Amana no.55340 and no.55341 are designed for stock from 1-1/8" to 1-3/4" thick. These thicknesses are for architectural sash and doors. For interior cabinet divided light doors I recommend the Amana no.55360.

Back deck?

I'm trying to spruce up my back deck a little. It is 12'x20' and made of pressure-treated pine. The current top railing is made from 2x6 planks. They've become warped and pitted to the point that they are unsightly and I plan to replace them. What I had in mind was using 2x8 planks in order to have a little wider ledge and 1/2 bullnosing or full bullnosing the inside edge of the planks to give it an upgraded look. I've never done any routing but am fairly handy and mechanically inclined. What tools and router bits will I need to complete this project?


Suwanee, GA

Our Expert

Amana has several profile bits that will shape an attractive edge on 1-1/2" thick deck railing. Round over bit no.49520 will create a 3/4" radius bullnose with two passes. You'll need a router table with a fence or a fence for your hand-held router for the second pass with the bit. Another option is the Amana no.57192. This unique bit also creates a bullnose with two passes but does not require a fence; the unique guide bearing follows the round over profile from the first pass. For a complete bullnose profile in one pass Amana offers the no.51566 3/4" radius bullnose bit. However, this is a large diameter bit that requires a table mounted router for safe use.

Signs for inside a Church?

What router bits are best for making signs for inside a church, like "nursery, men, women, office, etc?
Also, what wood do you recommend?


Winfield, WV

Our Expert

Amana Tool has a wide selection of V-Groove router bits, such as no.45705, that are perfect for sign making. The selection includes bits of different diameters and angles so you're sure to find a router bit that is suited for your requirements.

Inlay for countertop?

I need a router bit to plunge into formica for an inlay project. My main concern is the edge of the inlay and not the center material. What bit would you recommend for this?


Sault Ste. Marie, MI

Our Expert

I recommend the Amana Solid Carbide Spiral Bit Down-Cut no.46202. The edges of this bit are razor sharp and the down-cutting action of the spiral will
create a smooth cut on the laminate that is free of burning or chipping. 

Saw Blade for Radial Arm?

Amana has a couple of blades for radial arm saws. Is the RA1024, 10", 24 teeth, suitable for ripping on Radial arm saws? Low or negative hook angles are recommended for RAS but does this include ripping as well, or should one use a high hook angle low teeth blade for ripping only?


Holden, ME

Our Expert

Saw blades that are designed specifically for radial arm saws and sliding miter saws have a zero or negative hook angle to help prevent these saws from self-feeding when crosscutting. In contrast, rip blades have aggressive hook angles, usually 10, 15 or even 25 degrees. The positive hook angle allows rip blades to plow through the stock with a lot less feed pressure.

I don't recommend that you use a RA1024 for ripping because the increased feed pressure required. Instead, I recommend one of the Amana rip blades such as the no.610240 or the no.RB1020. Each of these blades has a 20 degree positive hook angle for decreased feed pressure.

Since we're on the topic, for reasons of your personal safety, I recommend that you do not use a radial arm saw for ripping. Instead, I recommend that you use a table saw for ripping. Unlike a radial arm saw, the height of the blade on a table saw can be lowered so that only enough blade is exposed for the thickness of the stock. Also the rip fence and guarding system on a table saw are better suited for ripping than those found on a radial arm saw.

Mounting a mantel?

I am mounting a mantel for a customer that is made of a solid block of maple and I don't want to drill holes through it. My thought was to cut a 45 deg. into the wood then make a corrisponding cleat about 1.5 inches. this would pull the piece into the wall for a tight fit and make it adjustible and removable. But I can't find a 45 deg. dovetail reverse chamfer bit. Why not? They have Ogee sets that have almost the same reverse profile, why not a simple 45 deg.?


Lafayette, CO

Our Expert

Actually, you don't need a 45 degree bit, a 14 degree dovetail bit, such asthe Amana no.45814 has enough pitch to pull the shelf to the wall and the joint will be stronger because it will not weaken the wood with the severe undercut like that of a 45 degree angle.

Routers & Shapers?

I understand shapers top out at about 10,000 rpm while routers will have the range of 10,000 - 22,000rpm. Much is said about the need to achieve adequate tip speed to get a satisfactory cut often putting routers as tool of choice for small diameter bits. Is not feed rate just as important as tip speed for getting quality cuts? Would a small diameter router bit at 10,000 rpm and some slow feed rate produce an equal quality cut to the same bit being use in a higher speed router at any feed rate?


Colorado Springs, CO

Our Expert

As a rule-of-thumb, router bits should spin much faster than shaper cutters because the diameter of the average router bit is much smaller; the extra RPM is needed to increase the rim speed and create enough cuts-per-inch to create a smooth surface that's free of a "washboard" texture.

But another reason that routers run faster than shapers is that they need the higher RPM's to compensate for their lack of torque. Universal motors, such as those used in routers, lack the torque of induction motors which are used in shapers and other stationary power tools. So they spin faster to make up for it.

However, you're right in that you can dramatically reduce the feed rate and use a router bit in a shaper and achieve acceptable results. I know because I have often run router bits in a shaper with good results simply by reducing the feed rate. Keep in mind that while this method works for small profile bits, such as an ogee or roundover, it will not work as well with very small diameter straight bits or straight bits with just one flute.

Hard Maple Table Legs?

I have to route a 1" deep x 3/4" wide slot the length of the leg. What router bit would you recommend? Would an up spiral, help get the material out of the way? also I am running this on a shaper.   

-Gil S.

Petoskey, MI

Our Expert

I recommend the Amana no.46366 up-cut spiral. The up-cut spiral will help to keep the groove cleaned out during the cut. Remember, shapers do not spin as fast as routers and so you may need to decrease the feed rate. 

Differences In Saw Blade Tooth Count?

What is the practical difference between a fifty tooth ATB 1" blade and a forty tooth general purpose blade?


Middle Grove, NY

Our Expert

A forty tooth general purpose blade, such as the Amana Prestige, uses an alternate top bevel, or ATB, grind. The top of the teeth are ground left and right which shears the wood for very clean crosscuts. However, this type of grind is a bit slower when ripping. Most of the time I keep the Amana Prestige, an ATB blade, on the tablesawbecause I'm cutting furniture parts to size and cutting joints. The ATB grind of the Prestige provides clean cuts regardless of the wood, the type of grain, or the grain direction. This is important to me because I'm often cutting expensive highly figured stock. The forty teeth on the Prestige are enough to create very clean crosscuts but, unlike a 60 or 80-tooth crosscut blade, the Prestige will do a good job of ripping, too. However, the trade-off is that the ATB grind is not as efficient at ripping as a 4-and-1 grind, combination blade.

The traditional "combination" blade, such as Amana no.610504, uses a 4-and-1 grind, or four ATB teeth in a group with a flat topped raker tooth. The four ATB teeth shear the grain for clean crosscuts; as the name implies, the raker tooth rakes the kerf to clear away sawdust for more efficient ripping. The large gullet behind each group of five teeth also works to efficiently remove the sawdust from the kerf.

Whenever I have a lot of hardwood stock to rip, I switch to a true rip blade such as the Amana no.610240. The flat top grind and large gullets make ripping fast and efficient.


Replacing a counter top with oak about 14 inches wide.  Considering routing the edge with Amana 54150 classical cove bit, or something similiar.  What's the main difference between the 5/16 radius, 1-3/8" diameter bit and a 3/16" radius, 1-1/8" diameter bit?


Our Expert

The profile of the two bits is identical; the difference is proportion. Amana Tool no.54150 is the larger of the two bits and the larger profile will appear more attractive when used on thick stock.

Hand Knitting Looms?

I would like to know if there's any other way of making long wooden cylinders of aprox. 1/2" in diameter without turning on a Lathe. I`ve tried methods like cutting long squared sectioned pieces of wood and then rounding the 4 edges using a router bit it is very difficult for me to obtain a perfect cylinder. I`m thinking of trying with a semi-circular bullnose router bit but I still have't tried it. A friend of mine told me of a machine in which you insert an irregular piece of wood in one end and it comes out round through the other. I`ve no Idea if that machine actually exists or what it`s called. Could you please recommend the most cost effective and fast solution?

- Israel

Merida, ME

Our Expert

You can make four cuts with an Amana no.49504 corner rounding bit or two cuts with the Amana no.51558 bullnose bit but, as you've discovered, it is very difficult to create a perfect cylinder without turning the object in a lathe.

Another option is to create a box jig in which you can turn the workpiece by hand or with a crank. Position the router above the workpiece and, using a straight bit, run the router along the top of the box as the workpiece is turning.


Would an Amana 3d router bit work for rounding over the edges of curved (steam bent) 1/2 in cedar?



Our Expert

The innovative Amana 3D bit is a corner rounding bit with guide bearings on both the X and Y axis. The guide bearings limit the cutting depth in two directions and so allow woodworkers to round the edges of compound curves. It's available in two different radii, tool no.49528 creates a 1/8" radius and no.49529 shapes a 1/4" radius.

Yes, either would a great choice for your project and save a lot of time and tedious hand work.

Replacing ca. 1927 outdoor shutters?

I have Amanda router bits 49670 & 49672 but am baffled as to how to set them up to make long, through mortices to duplicate the original, hand cut ones.
Does anyone provide instructions for the use of these bits?


Hanover, PA

Our Expert

Traditional stile-and-rail work is joined with mortise-and-tenon joints. A decorative profile, sometime referred to as "sticking", is shaped around the inside edges of the stiles and rails to embellish the appearance of the frame. Where the stiles and rails intersect the decorative profile is coped.

A cope is a reverse of the decorative profile. The cope is shaped on the ends of the rails directly above the tenon. When the cope and sticking are joined together during assembly, the decorative profile appears to be mitered.

Amana Tool offers five different profiles bit sets for creating stile-and-rail frames. Set no.49673 creates a classic cove-and-roundover profile. Bit no.49670 shapes the profile and bit no.49672 creates the cope.

The sets are designed for thicker stock, such as that used to create window and door frames and shutters

Before shaping and coping, first cut the mortise-and-tenon joints. If a groove is to be used for a panel, keep in mind that the shoulders of the tenon must be offset in length to compensate for the decorative profile. If a rabbet for glass is used, the tenon shoulders can be the same length as long as the rabbet and decorative profile share the same depth.

Once the joinery is complete the next step is to shape the cope. The stock is fed past the bit face down and the top of the bit should come close, but not touch, the tenon face. Afterwards the profile is shaped on both stiles and rails, a groove or rabbet is cut, and the framework is assembled.

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