I enjoyed a couple of books that you wrote, "Shaping Wood" and "The Shaper Book." I read the "Shaper Book" prior to purchasing a shaper since I am mostly self taught.
I am an amateur woodworker. I am going to build my own kitchen cabinets. And I make a lot of molding for picture frames and for my home. I recently purchased the 88mm Profile Pro aluminum cutterhead for my new 3hp shaper. It molds beautifully and the finish is much better than expected. I have a couple of technical questions where a more experienced person may know a simple solution:
1) I am having a problem with snipe on the last 2 or 2 ½ inches. All of the wood is being hand fed, and while I’m comfortable doing this, the snipe is irritating. I suspect that the large cutterhead (larger than the router bits I’ve become accustomed to) is creating a large gap in the split fence. Would a rub collar help, and what sizes since there are so many blade shapes? Also, would a power feeder be any help since they are reliant on a fence for support?
2) The table opening of my shaper is barely too tight to lower the cutterhead(with knives) below table level. This is definitely limiting, and I plan to purchase the 68mm head just for that reason. Why are there so many sizes of the cutterheads & does the diameter affect the quality of the cut?
-T. Allen Wyatt
Winter Haven, FL
Our Expert
Amana makes a selection of elongated core box bits and the 1" diameter, Amana Tool no.45942, would be a good choice for a handhold on bee hives. The elongated core box bits make a straight-sided groove with a curved bottom.
The elongated core box bits which are larger than 1" diameter require a table-mounted router for safe use. However, the 1" diameter can be safely used in a hand-held router and two overlapping passes of the 1" diameter should make a comfortable handhold.
Because this is a stop cut you'll need to use a plunge router. Also, you'll need a guide bushing on the router sub-base to guide the cut against a template which is fixed to the work piece.
Finally, keep in mind that on the second, overlapping pass, that the bit will only be cutting on one side. It's critical to feed against the bit rotation to avoid climb-cutting and self-feeding.
And thanks for the compliments on my books and articles; it's always good to hear that woodworkers are enjoying them.